I have done it both ways and I think my hand applique looks better when I use a hoop. I find that when I get the puckering it's when I'm not using the hoop. My fabric is in the hoop taut, not stretched and the nicely starched applique piece stays in place with one little dot of glue and no stabilizer. I've never done reverse applique so I can't speak to that. I've never been able to do machine applique that looked nice so I'm a hand applique kinda girl
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