What stinks of smoke - the fabric from the designer or the fabric from fabric shops?
Same question for mildew?
Are you certain that someone hasn't smoked near the fabric in your house?
The smoke can be dealt with - put the fabric in a plastic bag with either baking soda or vinegar (not both - they'll react)
You might be able to get the mildew out with oxygen bleach (like oxyclean). I would try one or a few pieces first. You'll need water for this. I would handwash, rinse, and then dry on a towel.