Here is how I set the tensions on my TinLizzie18LS...and it should work for your machine also (works for most industrial type quilting machines).
Set the bobbin tension first:
Hold the loaded bobbin case in the palm of one hand (bobbin facing up)... pull on the thread coming off the bobbin case, and the case will start to come up off your hand, it may even stand on end...but then the thread should pull out straight and smooth, with just the slightest hint of tension. If the case lifts off your hand...loosen the larger screw on the side of the bobbin case about 1/12 of a turn (lefty loosey, righty tighty)...think of the screw as a clock face..loosen one hour.
If the thread just flows out and the bobbin case didn't move at all...tighten the larger screw on the side of the case one hour & test again.
Once you have the bobbin tension adjusted, you shouldn't have to adjust it again (unless you change the type of thread being used in the bobbin).
Now, you are ready to adjust the upper tension. Your tension dial has no "settings". Make a mark on the dial with whiteout or some kind of marker that will show on the black. You just want a dot on the very front of the nut that is used to adjust the tension. This will let you know when you have turned a full revolution or not. If you start with the mark at the 12 o'clock position and turn the dial a full turn, the mark will again be at 12 o'clock. This will really help you in adjusting tension in the future.
With the machine threaded, put the hopping (presser foot) down, and then pull on the thread coming out of the needle... the needle should hint at flexing/bending, but then the thread should pull out straight and evenly, with about the amount of tension a home sewing machine bobbin has. You feel tension, but not so much that you can't pull it from the needle without the needle staying flexed/bent.
To loosen the upper tension, turn the dial half a turn (lefty loosey, righty tighty) to the left...and test again.
Once you think you are close to what the tension should be...test on the quilt...check the underside for loopies (as you see in your pics) or pokies (small dots of the top thread color showing on the underside). I test for this by running my fingernail along the stitches...if you feel "tut, tut, tut"...tighten the upper half a turn and try again. If you see loopies...tighten a full turn and try again.
If the thread breaks while testing...then you need to back off 1/2 turn, then test..if you still get pokies...loosen the bobbin tension screw 1/12 of a turn...and test.
Other things that can cause bad tension (or what looks like bad tension) is the hopping foot is set too high, allowing the fabric to get pulled up by the needle. I think your pic shows the hopping foot in the up position, otherwise it may be a tad high (if the foot is down). Not sure you can adjust your foot..check instructions for how to raise lower the presser bar height.
You don't want the takeup bar too high above the bed of the machine. You should be able to just barely fit your fingertips between the bed of the machine & the takeup bar that goes through the bed of the machine.
You don't want the quilt too tight on the frame. You should be able to push up from the underside of the quilt with the fingertips of one hand, and just be able to grab them with the other hand.
I hope this helps.
You will need to adjust tension every time you change the type or even the color of thread...it's just how these machines work.
Also, make sure the keep the hook area and the tension discs clean of lint/threads/dust...tiny bit of lint can cause tension issues also.
Don't be afraid to adjust the tensions...this is not a home sewing machines...the "don't mess with the bobbin tension" rule is not in use on our longarm machines.
Originally Posted by
PJisChaos
Good morning, all! For the last 2 weeks, I have been trying everything under the sun and on the 'net to get the tension right on this setup I acquired. I did try to get help in the Vintage forum and got nowhere, I reckon it is an unheard of machine..? Anywho, this is what I have:
A Singer 96-45 mounted on a frame for longarm-style quilting. The frame is similar to the kenquilt system, with the 3 rollers all the same height. (I have seen a lot of frames with one of the rollers mounted higher or lower than the others.)
The machine has been cleaned thoroughly, tension assembly removed, cleaned and remounted, new needle(s) have also been used, bobbin housing was completely removed and cleaned as well. Timing has even been reset since the hook wasn't coming across the shaft at the exact middle, although it did stitch fine before and still does after. The issue is just the tension. I can't seem to get it right. I have used 40 wt & 50 wt threads, 100% cotton, and the poly-cotton/cotton-poly wrapped combo , all in every imaginable combination. The bobbin will take and use whatever thread ya throw in there. Upper thread breaks randomly. I believe this is due to it being too tight but, in order to get no loops on the back it has to be that tight. Any ideas, suggestion, tips, maybe even a spare sledge-hammer I could borrow for a few days?
I have begun making sure the sandwich wasn't too taut, after reading that somewhere, but that's not the problem either. I am gonna add a few more thread guides this weekend, as was suggested in a YouTube video, see if that helps since I know there is at least 1 missing. I have tried new thread, old thread, in-between thread and am getting a bit frustrated. I also seen somewhere that maybe the 16 needles are not ideal for high-speed machines..? Maybe going up a size would work since it runs at 3500 spm? I tried to make a genie bobbin thing out of the teflon I use to FMQ with my domestic machine but all that did was super heat the bobbin and the thread! That did not work out so well, and actually stopped the machine. So, popped that out and let it cool off for a few hrs and she was all good again. Well, except for the small problem of the upper thread breaking. And I'm not so sure it's threaded right since the manual online(the only one I can find for this machine) is nothing more that a parts list and of absolutely no help! Grrrr.
Believe me, I am totally open to suggestions and desperate for anyone's help! Thanks a bunch.
Pics:
stitches on top
stitches on bottom
**note* I have been restitching over and over til I get the hang of it, using different colors for each pass. that's why it looks such a mess! The really heavy bobbin is actually loose upper tension, very loose! Last pass made was with blue upper and blue bobbin, white was the pass before that one, and variegated was the first pass.
how it is threaded(with arrows to help see it) :-)
It comes off the cone/spool goes up into a make-shift cone stand "thing", then R to L thru first hole, L to R thru 2nd hole and R to L thru 3rd hole, down and around tensioner making sure to catch the spring, under the bar on the left there, up thru the needle arm hole, down thru 2 rings(not shown) on the face plate(?) first one has thread go under it to pop in there, and the 2 nd one you wind the thread thru it L to R, then down to needle bar eye and L to R thru the needle. Yes, the needle is in right as far as I can tell, it is round shank so hard to get dead perfect. Needles are DBx1 16x231 size 16. A size 12 refuses to work and is only good for skipping tons of stitches. This is why timing was reset, as it was suggested as a possible problem.