Joe,
First thing, I need to correct my statement of .092. It's actually .093. I have to watch myself I do that mistyping all too often.
Almost all household machines are timed the same way. Time the hook first, then the needle bar height, then the feeddogs.
Start with a new needle. Turn the hand wheel in the correct direction to get the needlebar to DBC. Then raise it .093"/ 3/32"/ 2.5mm(ish). Now check the hook tip, is it
just coming in behind the needle? Doesn't matter at this point whether it is too high or too low. However if it is too far right or left then you need to time the hook.
Next set the needlebar height. Turn the hand wheel so that the point of the hook is behind the needle and set the needlebar height so that the top of the needle's eye is just below the tip of the hook.
If the feed dog timing is off set it now. Put the stitch length to it's longest setting. The needle should enter the fabric just as the teeth drop below the needleplate. Usually this timing is changed on the main shaft where the feeddog fork rides on the eccentric cam.
Tighten everything up and test by turning by hand.
Cathy
Originally Posted by
J Miller
Cathy,
Here is a question I've thought about but not found the answer too.
You have a machine to work on, it's an early one with no reference or timing marks. Say an early Singer 66.
You want to check to make sure the needle is at the correct height, but with no reference or timing marks, what method do you use to do this?
And is there a method that would work say on all mechanical machines including the 15 clones?
Joe