I stitch my binding on the front then, like Prism99, press the binding away from the body. I then turn the binding to the back and pin...FROM THE FRONT...when I pin - I pin insert the tip of the pin straight down into the quilt and as close to the folded edge of the binding as I can then bring the tip back up to the top/front of the quilt with the head of the pin extending to the right and outside the quilt edge. This does to things - it shows me where the back edge is (at the insertion point of the pin) and it gives me a clear "path" in which to stitch - as long as my stitching is between the insertion point of the pin and the seam where the binding was stitched to the quilt, I know that I'll catch the back edge of the binding. When I first started doing this- I had to look at the back to make sure I was close to the folded edge, but now i can do it by feel.
The other thing I do is to cut a slightly wider binding as EazyPeezy does - the rule I learned in an early class for cutting binding for hand finishing was to take your seam allowance (or finished bound edge size) times 7 to determine how wide to cut your binding strip for a folded binding. Since I want it slightly wider for machine finishing, I add one quarter inch to that number. In other words - I like to use a 3/8 seam for most bindings - 3/8 times 7 equals 21/8 or 2 5/8 inches to cut for hand stitching - add 1/4 inch for machine finishing means I cut the strip at 2 7/8 inches. If I want my binding to finish at 1/4 inch, it would be 1/4 times 7 = 7/4 = 1 3/4 inches + 1/4 = cutting width of 2 inches.