Should anyone still be interested in the original question,
Sorry no pics. Here is how adressmaker who knows nothing about quilting puts one together and isflabbergasted at how much work the so-called 'quilt-as-you-go' reallyis and how it actually is not conducive to machine quilting. Thisway the top looks like a real quilt without the ridiculous sashesstealing from the fluidity of the design; the back is not one piecevisually but it is not noticed with the quilt lines.
Paper piece or strip or scrap orselvage quilt directly onto batting, with 1/2" overhang allaround the batting.
Square up blocks to within 1/4" ofbatting foundation for seam allowances.
Sew blocks together to create rows.
Start with row one. Cut and place backto top, wrong sides together.
Going across the entire row of blocksmachine quilt (do not even need walking foot) straight lines or wavylines every couple of inches.
Lay right sides together top of Row 2to top of Row 1 and right sides together bottom of Row 1 to Row 2.
Sew across 1/4".
Flip top and bottom of Row 2 away fromRow 1, leaving seam locked inside Row 2.
Machine quilt (do not need walkingfoot) either straight seams or wavy a couple of inches apart acrossRow 2, as did on Row 1.
Now add Row 3, again locking the seaminside. Keep adding your rows.
This seamstress method has severaladvantages, one being your quilting is always the bulk of the quiltto the outside of the machine. The only amount under the throat isthe width of your blocks. AND there are no sashes or extra busywork. This also works first quilting a quilt top's rows to thebatting and then proceding; just easier to design and sew stuff thatis pieced directly to the batting to save time and steps.
For the extremely symetrical-minded,start with the center row and work out in each direction, placing thehidden seams in exactly the same positions on each side of the quilt.
Next quilt I will photograph or video.