I took a class with John Flynn where, because of the pattern, we had to be able to consistently cut to 1/32 of an inch and consistently sew a scant quarter seam accurate to 1/32 of an inch. I was one of two people out of 30 in the class who could do it - I don't mean to sound conceited here - and would be happy to tell you my tricks.
Regarding sewing the seam, I took a generic blind hem foot, set the wheel to a scant quarter inch (a scant quarter inch means 1/4 inch minus one thread width), taped the wheel down with masking tape, and fed the fabric through, letting the feed dogs take it, not pushing it, and watching that it was lined up against the little stop on the foot. I measured it with a metal measuring guide, and that is important. Here's the measuring device:
http://www.joann.com/dritz-measuring...ring+&start=11
This device is much more accurate than many rulers and almost all plastic tapes. It is metal and does not stretch.
Here's a picture of a Viking blind hem foot. The generic ones are fine, though.
http://www.shopjoya.com/p-25715-blin...A#.Ustz7vRDsuc
I also used a Singer Featherweight in this class. It enables precision piecing because of the feed dogs. However, I have used this trick since on many machines and I consistently get an exact quarter inch seam. On my slant stitch machines, I use the 1/4 inch foot, that is, the after-market foot that is made for that purpose. And yes, I do measure the sewn seam with the measuring device I've shown.
In a situation where it is hard to feed the fabric, I wear a trolley needle on my right hand, second finger. The needle and band should be on the underside of your finger.
http://www.hsn.com/products/trolley-...7-001b2166c2c0
In quilting, it's always the smallest details that make the difference. I am fortunate to have studied with some really great quilting teachers, also.
I hope that any of you who try this method will post and tell us your results.
Cricket