Originally Posted by
ArizonaKAT
<snip>When I first brought it home, it sewed for a little while (about 2 feet) then the thread would break. I changed the thread and bobbin and needle. No luck.
<snip>
ArizonaKAT who feels like she will never figure out how to use a quilting machine.
OK. Now that I see what we're talking about
Thanks for starting the thread! I'm adding a LOT of info here, but hopefully it will help you find the issue. (and hence why I didn't want to put it in the quilts made on vintage machines thread)
One of the really overlooked things with quilt frames is that the tension of your sandwich can affect things like thread breakage. Try loosening the sandwich, it looks very tight to me. I see what looks like tension lines from each pole. It should be loose enough that you can poke a finger up from underneath and grab it with your other hand from the top.
Additionally, I can't tell how much space is between the sandwich and the bed of the machine. You should be able to stick a finger in between the takeup roller and the bed. This will need to be adjusted as you quilt more rows too.
You will get this working, there are a couple more variables with the frame, but we'll get you sorted.
Originally Posted by
J Miller
when you end up with birds nests under the fabric it means you loosened the top tension too much. Try gradually tightening it watching the results each time.
Exactly what Joe said.
Since you're working with 2 different colors of thread, adjusting tension is relatively easy here. With these machines as with a domestic, you're looking to see "the bald headed man" in the top of the quilt. The bald headed man being the very top of the lower thread just below the surface of the top fabric. Sometimes "perfect" balance isn't possible, which is why we usually use the same color thread on the top and bottom. I tend to go one or 2 shades darker on the bottom than the top if I can get away with it.
We tend to run tension a fair bit looser on a frame system than on a domestic. Set your bobbin tension according to Jamie Wallen's video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM
Once that's done, try tightening up the top tension until 2 things happen:
1. The nests go away. This will take a little patience because it may bind up several times until you get it right. I can't tell if that machine has a numbered tensioner or if it just turns and turns. I would start with roughly 2 full turns if it's one that turns forever. That should hopefully eliminate the nests and give you a good starting point.
2. You should have no railroad tracks on the bottom or the top. For the bottom, you can reach your hand down under the sandwich and run a fingernail across the stitching. If it "pop pop pops" your lower tension is too tight and or the top is too loose. Figuring out that fingernail trick saved a lot of wear and tear on my back!
Originally Posted by
Macybaby
This may seem silly - but you are remembering to put the foot down, right? With the hopping foot, it can look down even when it's not (so top tension not engaged) and then it's a huge - huge bird's nest underneath.
Man was I guilty of that a few times with the old frame machine! Now, since my current frame doesn't have a presser foot to lower, I forget to lower it when I sew on a domestic. What a mess!!
One other thing that I've found can cause a lot of thread breakage is if a remainder thread from a previous break / nest is still down there in the hook area. The tolerance for anything out of the ordinary is very small with a faster moving machine.
Originally Posted by
Candace
What size needle are you using?
In addition to that, I'm guessing it's a round shank needle? Make sure that the needle is oriented the right way. If it's turned even slightly there's more stress on the thread and it can cause breakage. If there's a scarf on the needle, it will go to the side where the hook comes around to grab the thread. If it's turned even a few degrees wrong it can be a hassle. If you need, I can shoot some pics to help illustrate this. I will have to use Lucey for it, but the principle will be the same. Actually, I'll probably shoot a video for you if needed.
As for the size of the needle, the manual you have - is it for the machine or for the "quilt frame setup"? I ask because with this sort of quilting we usually want to use a larger needle than we usually would if the machine isn't on the frame. 16 - 18 would be what I would expect, or if they're "true" industrial needles, then a 3.5 or a 4.0.
Originally Posted by
ArizonaKAT
Now I have a question about the foot. I do remember to put it down (after forgetting a few times, I figured that one out) but it still seems to "float" on top of the fabric. Should I try lowering it more?
The goal of the foot is to hold the fabric in place while the needle pulls out of the fabric. It doesn't need to smash the fabric. Depending on where the machine is in the stroke, it may seem very high. If it's in the lowest part of the stroke, it should ideally be just above or just below the level of the fabric. It's rare to have to lower the foot. Many people raise them, like Leah Day - it helps quiet these sorts of setups down:
http://www.archaicarcane.com/beautif...down-your-fmq/
Originally Posted by
miriam
Don't think this machine is any different from any regular machine. Don't let the fact that it is industrial type throw you - it is basically just a sewing machine. It will have the same problems as any other machine. Take your time. Drink a little tension tamer tea.
Correct! The machine is the same as any other. In fact, if the suggestions we've already given you don't pan out, I'm going to suggest taking the machine off the frame to test and see if you can find the problem, then put it back on. That will help figure out if it's the "frame physics" that we need to sort or the machine.
This is also a great reference for thread breaks or needle breaks:
http://piecemealquilts.com/frame-quilting/
I used to have it taped to the old frame and luckily I don't think I ever needed it.