I used Carol Doaks book 300 Paper-Pieced Quilt Blocks when I first started paper piecing. It came with a CD to download onto the computer, as well as an easy way to remove a page if one wanted to take it to a photocopier. In that book she provides cutting sizes for a four inch block,but if you want to make the block larger, which the software allows, you have to figure out the sizes to cut on your own. She recommends placing a thin piece of cardboard, like a postcard , on the stitching line and folding it over that for accuracy. crease and remove cardboard off course. Also cuts a 1/4" when another fabric is added.
When I first began, I was just gleefully cutting fabric on a wild guess. That was fun. But the project I am doing now, I decided to try my best to get a cutting measurement. I placed my ruler over the piece and added slightly more than the 1/4" and wrote it down and did the same for all the rest. So I had all the little pieces cut out . I placed them in small plastic boxes which I labeled with it's number on the pattern. I must say, it does take a little more attention to accuracy when doing it this way, and I need to struggle for the patience as I am a "ride the galloping horse" type, but I think I will continue on like this because if I am going to do several blocks, each one then becomes familiar to my brain. Did I make sense?
She also provided a hint as to how to deal with mistakes. Small tiny stitches are a pain in the wazoo to rip out. Her solution--place a piece of Magic Tape, made by Scotch, over the paper line on the front, turn over and gently lift the fabric and then lightly place your cutter on the exposed thread while pulling up. worked for me using a 28mm and the tape on the front was no problem when removing the paper.
I use a very small stitch, #14 needle, usually do a stay stitch or two at the end , and tracing paper, which I bought on the web from a school supply store 500 sheets ought to last a long time. It removes easily and I can also see through it.