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Old 10-26-2014, 09:34 PM
  #18  
suzanprincess
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Rancho Cordova, CA
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There is a tutorial on this board, which got me started. http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...s-t144848.html

I make them to sell for fundraisers (Project Linus mostly, and a couple other nonprofits) and expect to hit 400 made by the end of this season (before Thanksgiving)-- that is if I can get my machine fixed quickly, it's suddenly going from stop to fast only--and I've mostly used Warm and Natural in them, or Warm and White, which seems a bit stiffer so is easier to work with. The Warm Tater no-scrim batting is way too expensive for me, and the scrim has presented no problems in the three years I've been making these!

Tips I'll pass on:
1)I cut the batting 3/4" - 1" smaller than the outside fabrics--I mostly use 9 1/2" fabric, 8 1/2" batting, which fits all my single-serving bowls, and also my larger serving bowls;
2) use a little school glue to attach batting to fabric and let dry; so much faster/easier to quilt than pin basted;
3) I like to glue a 4" square of flannel on the center of the batting of just one side for extra bottom-of-the-bowl padding;
4) the darts don't have to be wide or deep to be effective--I use 3/4-1" by 2-2 1/4";
5) I no longer mark the darts, but instead after quilting fold at center, RS tog, insert a long smooth item inside the fold to help make an even crease and push the fabric into the crease, and measure 3/8" in from the fold and 2" or so down the crease, stitch;
6) Using my walking foot I sew a generous 1/4" or even 3/8" seam around the outside, leaving about 2 1/2" opening for turning--I found it stitches straighter and turns more evenly with the wider seam allowance and no batting in the actual seam;
7) Using my walking foot I top-stitch around the finished and turned edge at least 1/4" in to assure the batting is well attached and the bowl keeps its shape.

Last edited by suzanprincess; 10-26-2014 at 09:36 PM.
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