Thank you very much, everyone. Obviously (to me now), the pleat was too big, 3/4" in a 2" sleeve. I made a 1/2" tuck in the outer fold and that did the trick. In future, I think I'll use Peckish's method, as it constructs a "D" shape automatically, and you can control the size of the D by how big the seam is. Thank you for your help--
Nancy