Yes force... But don't use force unless you have to...
Step 13:
More tea - this is where you are kind of on your own. There may be a thing to hold the disks there may not be. It can be about any shape. But you took pictures so put the next thing on your nose plate like you took it off. On a Singer it is a chrome thing that keeps the disks together. It has to be worked into a notch. I have had to wrestle more than one of these because I didn't make good notes or things got into the wrong direction.
Step 14:
Usually the disks go on next followed by a washer or a cup thingy with a bar across for the tension pin to release the tension. It goes a certain direction. These usually are not flat. You should have looked what direction it goes when you took it apart. If I forget to note it when I took the tension apart I put a finger on it and then lift the presser foot. If it moves the disks and holds flat it is good to go.
Step 14:
Usually the disks go on next followed by a washer or a cup thingy with a bar across for the tension pin to release the tension. It goes a certain direction. These usually are not flat. You should have looked what direction it goes when you took it apart. If I forget to note it when I took the tension apart I put a finger on it and then lift the presser foot. If it moves the disks and holds flat it is good to go.
In the case of the MW there was a cup with a flower looking hole. The little washer thing went under it. On one of the tensions someone had it inside that thing - the pin didn't work that way - I bet it didn't sew right...
Step 15:
Next should be a beehive spring. Then some tensions have a little washer with a pointy thing at the top. Out of 4 I didn't have any. These can be curved or not. Another thing to carefully note when you removed the tension parts. Have some more tea...
Step 16:
You may or may not have a cover of some kind for the beehive spring. Some just have a nut. Some have a dial like the Singers. Some have a nut with a cup thing over it. Your next step will be to turn the tension spring with the little loop on it for thread up into that C shape cut out in the little cup where the spring rides. Then you can put the nut on and adjust your tension. If yours has a dial you will need to see about getting it on there in a way that will span from 0 back around to about 1 without coming apart. . Trial and error will get it sooner or later. Tammi has info on the dial on her blog article about the Singer 201 however it may or may not work on the clone.
The tensions I worked on today did not have a dial like a Singer. These had a little window with a line and you kind of want the line in the middle.
Step 17
You will need to adjust your tension.
This can some times be tricky if the tension did not re-assemble like it should. Usually if it doesn't adjust I remove it all and start over because it is likely something did not go in the right order or direction. Some times I get lucky and it works right off.
If you have a broken, missing or sprung tension spring you will need to determine which kind you need. I have a few around so I try to match them. Occasionally I have found an incorrect spring on a tension and needed to replace it with a different one. Some have a longer arm than others. If the arm is too long or too short you will not get good stitches. I've seen them get stuck under the pin if they are too short. I try to match the arm length. Anyway you want that spring to move freely not scrubbing the face plate or getting stuck in the bar thing.