Originally Posted by
OurWorkbench
Tammi, hope your shoulder/neck is better today.
The one on Etsy is neat - with the lid separate wouldn't that make it harder to "conceal" the straps? I've also thought in addition to straps all the way around that I'm thinking that it would probably be better to have a solid bottom - rather than a seam in the middle of the bottom. I suppose if using directional fabric that it could be problematic.
I'm curious of the spacing of the straps on the tote. I think I've seen some closer toward the middle and some closer to the side. I can see that the wider spacing of the strap location would give a better surface for embroidery or pocket and might be better for over the shoulder straps. The luggage that I have seen (like for laptop bags) have clips on the ends of the bag for the shoulder strap. Seems like I have also seen straps are spaced a little narrower (about the width of the handle on the top of the case). Have any of you that have used the bags/totes have any comments about if you wish the straps were spaced a little wider or narrower for comfort and possibly the feeling of it maybe being a little wobbly?
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Thanks Janey, yes - my neck and shoulder are a little better today. I will be taking Ronnie out again tonight to another sewing group so we'll see how load-bearing the shoulder feels like being. Since we don't have snow yet, I might load her onto a rolling cart I have to save some wear and tear.
The lid looks like it's still attached at the back of the tote. I haven't really hit on a full design yet, it's still marinating. I find if I don't bug it too much for the first day or so, it often pretty much hops into the pan by itself when it's ready.
I may do it with the straps outside anyway. Thinking about it, even the mesh bag my cousin suggested would be strong, since the load carrying capacity is coming from the straps and the rest of the bag is mostly stabilization. Hiding the straps was partially for aesthetics in general and partly so that if I chose to embroider it, it was irrelevant where the straps were. That's mainly because my patterns often evolve as I'm building them and if I've embroidered a panel already, I'm a little stuck.
I was thinking of stiffening the bottom, and either a single seam or a perimeter seam. I hadn't really decided yet but was thinking on the same lines as you are. I probably also wouldn't bother with the plastic bottom that the etsy bag uses. The straps that bag uses look like cotton - moisture would just wick up the straps.
I feel like the further apart the straps are, the better the weight distribution would be or seem anyway - of course also paying attention to where the latch mechanism is too. I considered putting the straps on the sides instead of the front and back but I like the stability that comes from pulling the bag into you, instead of creating a fulcrum with the bag. I have a cooler bag that hangs with the straps on the sides and it always feels like it's tipping one way or the other.
Originally Posted by
lclang
Measure your FW and then take the measurements with you to Walmart. I bought a nice padded cooler bag with outside pockets and lots of padding for about $13.00 a couple of years ago and it works wonderfully. Might cost a little more now.
I have to drive past the Walmart tonight and will have Ronnie in the car with me. I might just stop and try out a few bags.
Originally Posted by
Mickey2
Lots of options in this thread. I would trust a homemade tote, but depending on fabric, you might need flat felled type of seams with two rows of stitches that lock the edges of the pieces in. Bull denim or duck canvas might be the easiest. Strong nylon fabric and webbin is very strong too, but fraying and slippery, they need something extra to hold the seams in the long run. I don't have an overlocker and I sometimes have to fuzz a bit extra with edges and sturdy seams to get it strong enough.
Flat Felled -like jeans if I recall my stitches? I agree. I know someone with a patcher and may be able to talk him into doing some of the webbing seams if I get into trouble. I think with the webbing stitched all the way up the bag though, it should hold pretty well, especially if the seams aren't in line with the bottom seam (another selling point for a perimeter seamed bottom)
Originally Posted by
Sewnoma
ArchaicArcane - you found the one I was talking about!
I like her tote overall but I actually DON'T like the image of the FW on the outside. The shape and size is enough of a giveaway, I wouldn't want extra advertisement on the bag as to what's inside. Kind of like a big, "Hey look I'm TOTALLY worth stealing!!" sign.
I see that you mean but I figure it this way: When I take her sewing - everyone already knows what she is and I'm always with her. The groups I tend to go to, I know the ladies quite well too. I suppose if I were going to a class where I didn't know anyone, it might be different. I was thinking though, that I might embroider a design I like on it or put some of my long arm quilting on it with a variegated thread. Like a whole cloth made functional.
Originally Posted by
Rodney
Tammi you mentioned a light bulb trick for musty cases? Where do I find that info? I have a couple vintage cases now that could use some sort of help in the smell department.
Thanks,
Rodney
I was gonna watch the video again and type it out but Google saved me. Someone else already typed it out.
Here is the process he suggests:
https://m.facebook.com/notes/singer-...4015585316683/
Originally Posted by
Stitchnripper
i keep one of mine in a case like this. I still put my other hand under it just because. Seems like a good fit. It's not "cute" though!!
Definitely a good idea to hold it underneath. I've had one of those boxes pop open when I thought I'd latched it tightly but hadn't. You can also use that double sided velcro and wrap a strap or two under the bottom of the box and do it up on top. I do that when I carry a case without a bag around it.
Originally Posted by
Mickey2
I have a couple card board boxes for attatchments that reeks of cellar. Have you found anything that helps? I have them on a book shelf in a warm dry room, lid off and hope they will eventually air off sooner than later. It's been about a year now and it's much better, but still not quite there yet, not enough to close the lid on the boxes.
I'm thinking of filling the bottom of them with baking soda, and leave them in in a plastjc a couple of days, then replace it. I know it will air off eventually, but it would be nice to speed the process up a bit. It certainly doesn't get better by closing the lids and storing them away some where.
UV light bulbs helps with odours, but will lead to deterioration of the materials in the case, especially leather and paper. I might be something we regret later on. Ozon treatment cleans out smells, but I'm not sure if these old cases can handle harsh treatments like that. I think thats' what the UV bulbs produce, the temporarily split the oxygen molecules in the air, making ozon molecules.
Just the old standbys for cardboard - activated charcoal, kitty litter, newspaper, baking soda, etc. Some say setting it outside will do it but that introduces your UV problems again.
You can also wipe the cardboard down with a weak bleach solution. That might kill any bacteria or mold contributing to the stench. I'm guilty of throwing the boxes out if they smell really bad.
Originally Posted by
amcatanzaro
No. I've got it stuffed full of newspaper and on a top shelf in the basement. Some magic day it will be ok... right?
The machine itself is on a shelf in my sewing room.
I would be concerned about the newspaper gathering moisture and compounding the problem. I'd love to know if Dave's solution works for you.
Originally Posted by
amcatanzaro
I rarely trust any handle for more than a few seconds, I use them more for stability than anything else. On a sewing machine case I assume they are more for lifting the lid than a long term carry.
The hard plastic case is good for slightly damp storage/taking it places in the rain and making it stackable on a rolling cart. Might work on a motorcycle as well.
I wonder if contact paper could make them nicer.
This is exactly what I usually tell anyone who I see with a vintage case. I don't trust them either. I've seen the aftermath of a machine coming out the bottom too. Yep, I've carried those boxes on a motorcycle, and I have had Ronnie on a motorcycle too - she was in a soft bag inside my hard luggage on the back of the bike at that time.
Well, I think you could decoupage that plastic case and no one would bat an eye at you for doing it.
Originally Posted by
purplefiend
Make sure that you have the straps go all the way around the bag, from top to bottom.
That way the straps cannot tear loose from the bag.
Sharon in Texas
Definitely. That's what got me into this situation to begin with. I should have looked harder at that bag but it was built for motorcycle gear - I thought it would be more than strong enough. I assumed and it bit me in the rear.