Originally Posted by
bearisgray
I would also add what kind of fabric one is attempting to sew. Heavy weight denim jeans hems require a sturdier needle than lightweight muslin.
I usually use an 80/12 "regular" needle for piecing.
Yes, I agree that I would use a 90/14 Jeans needle when working with heavy fabrics like Jeans or Duck Cloth, but I would also use a heavier thread to sew those -- typically a 30wt. A standard 50wt thread is not a good choice when working with heavy fabrics like that.
As it happens, Gutermann recommends a size 80 or 90 needle for all their 100% poly thread, so I really wouldn't go smaller than that in any case. If I was working with a fabric such as silk or linen that required a smaller needle, I'd switch to a finer thread like an Aurifil 50/2 (which I routinely stitch with a size 70/10 needle) or YLI silk (which works well with a size 65/9 or 60/8 needle). But honestly, the smaller needles are typically not recommended for beginners because they require more skill to keep the thread from shredding in the eye.