Thanks for the nice comments everyone. Emiliasnana, My favorite tool for marking lights are the blue water soluble markers. For borders, which usually require a lot of measuring out and dividing the space into somewhat equal increments I mark before loading so on this quilt I marked both borders out before loading. A little hint for dividing them up into equal increments without all the math and measuring is adding machine paper. I cut a piece the same size as the border and fold in half, than in half again and keep folding until I get to a size that works. Often I have to use different sizes for side borders and top and bottom borders because they are rarely divisible by the same number on rectangular quilts. The slight difference in size is not noticeable on the completed quilt. I then unfold the paper and use the fold lines to mark my quilt with a ruler.
Usually I just mark dividing lines and "skeletal" marks. Like for the Ginko leaves, I divided the border into equal increments (using the adding machine tape as described above) then further divided those up into quarters by marking an "X" through each square and used a circle templates to mark the arcs of the leaves lining up the centers with the etched center line on the circle template with the "x" I previously marked.
For the lotus blossoms I utilized the piecing seams as my "target points" and marked those out as I advanced the quilt.
Dark fabrics I use lots of different tools. Because I quilt on a rack, most of the time my marks don't rub out but I know from my hand quilting days that a lot of tools rub off. My favorite marking tool is the ceramic lead pencil but I also have a chalk pencil I like a lot too. I got it an artist supply store and made sure it was oil free. I have also used Roxanne's water soluble white pencil. While I found it made a great mark that was easy to see and stayed put, I found that product was a bugger to get out. Washing it didn't entirely get it out so I had to use a bit of elbow grease. I did eventually get it out but now I shy away from that particular tool. I would never use it on a client quilt because it was so hard to get out so I stick with chalk pencils, the ceramic lead pencil or regular white chalk. I found they all seem to last but with the manipulations of sit down quilting they could rub out as you work and you may have to remark as you go as the line is still faint enough to barely see for remarking as you go.
For stencils, I use regular pounce and give it a shot of cheap hairspray, like aquanet in a can. It washes out easily and helps the chalk powder stay put. I also had the issue of the hopping foot bouncing the chalk right off. The hairspray really works well for that. Again, I would only use this process on my own quilts, not customer quilts unless the client was ok with getting the quilt back with the marks that, in my experience, always wash out.
Unfortunately I am not familiar with any products for sit down quilters that mimic pantos without marking or tearing off the paper except water soluble products you can mark like Sulky Solvy. Again, with those products you need to make sure you mark them with something that washes away, like Crayola ultra washable markers or blue water soluble markers. And you also have to figure out how to attach that to the quilt so it stays put.
Here is a link to a tute I did on marking a dark border.
Marking an original design on a dark colored top for longarm quilting