Mickey2

For restoring machines, I guess Glenns method is as good as it gets (the sticky thread on top of this section of QB). I use a bit of black paint to fill in chips and deep scratches, shellac can fill out quite a bit too. I have not yet done complete strips and refinishings on machines, I have done it on table tops.

Between the layers of shellac, you wait about a minute or two, you notice when it's dry, achohol evaporates pretty quickly. A bit like with spray paint, you apply it thinly and gradually build up cover and thickness. Some advice is to use a glass bottle or jar to keep the shellac in, for some reason metal is warned agaisnt, I dont really know why.

If you brush on a thick shellac solution, it might take a bit longer to dry off between coats. The "cloth-ball method" is good and the best for an even smooth finish (a small one for machines, larger for table tops). You do quite a number of coats to build up enough thickness.

Make a generous amount of shellac (usually not a lot), enough to allow for wetting the cloth and a bit of testing on a piece of wood or metal you might have around. The the main thing with shellac is to develp a feel for it, it isnt excessivly time consuming or difficult, but there are a few tricks; keep the cloth ball moving, it can stick if left too long on the surface. Try not to go over the the same spot twice until the layer has dried, keep a steady speed. A drop or two (literally) of oil is added now then to prevent sticking, and make the cloth ball run smootly.

You will find a lot of variations on shellac polishing, but the basic steps seem to be much the same. The lucky part with machines is all the fuzz with preparing the wood surface doesn't apply and is omitted. Some experts would insist you go over with a last layer the next day, but then it's mostly about smothing out to deal with the shrinking effect shellac have when it's left to harden off. These are finer points, and I have noticed the finish on most sewing machines probably never was that fuzzed with.