I've made several t-shirt quilts. My first one had borders around each panel, which also looks good, but I prefer the "jigsaw" placement better.
- The first thing I do is cut the shirt, separating the front half from the back half. Sometimes sleeves have usable graphics, so I'll separate them from the shirt if needed.
- Designing is the most important step. I rough fold the material around the graphic to lay out on my bed. Just jump in!
- I start in the center with a centerpiece and work outward to a rectangular-ish shape.
- Then, I rearrange the pieces to even out the t-shirt colors. And balance out large and small graphics.
- When I think they are ready to go, I take several pictures of the layout with my phone.
- Now is time for graph paper sketch. This tells me the finished size for each panel.
- I use another piece of paper to record each panel's cut size, including (1/4" SA).
- Fusible interfacing stablizes the material to keep it from stretching out of shape. I cut the interfacing first, according to the size needed for each shirt (including SA), then center it on the back of the graphic and apply. After it cools. I use the interfacing as a guide and cut out the rectangle/square to make the quilt.
- (I have a new light table for my stained glass hobby. It worked great for centering the interfacing over the graphic!)
- When the top is done, the back has to be decided. I used minky fabric, so that is what I am going to explain.
- Make the back 1 1/2" larger on all sides to fold to the front as a fuzzy binding. Lay it out face down on the table, It smooths down nicely without wrinkles.
- I don't use batting with minky backs.
- I recently learned about spray basting--love it. Put your front and back together however you choose.
- I SID around each panel. Put newspaper under the minky side as you sew. It tears away easily afterwards.
- For binding, I double fold the minky towards the front and sew with a zig-zag stitch.