Bkay, he probably knows all about it. I don't know much at all, I was just given the advice to clean with spirit, a brush and compressed air on an old Remington porotable I had for a while. I was told the parts was made to run clean and dry, oil would just gather dust and grime. I whish he told me before I used spray can oil. This was from an old guy who sold color ribbons and who had a service shop for them in the 1970s, so I guess the advice wasn't totall off beam. I should look more into it though.
The tricky thing with oils for sewing machines is the additives, pure acid free oil and just the right thickness are the basic. Either synthetic or basic mineral oil should be fine. I guess teflon or ptfe is the additive that gives extra smoothness, and the rest can be dubeous. Only a few solvents may be benefitical and detergets should ideally be flushed out if used when cleaning. I don't thinck clock oil can be that bad, I assume they are made to dry clean, not get sticky, and easily clean off. They are probably a bit to light to be ideal for the heavier loads gears and joints on a sewing machine get.