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Old 04-11-2021, 05:07 AM
  #18  
Barb in Louisiana
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The Deep South near Cajun Country, USA
Posts: 5,383
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Thanks for all the comments on my original entry. I have been thinking of any poly as being handled in the same way as when the original polyester/cotton blend fabrics and thread came out. If you touched those fabrics with a Linen setting on your iron, you could burn the fabric in just a few seconds. "Ask me how I know???" I am glad to know others have tested the Glide thread and found it held up well with a hot (Linen) setting for pressing. Glide is a 40 weight thread and I have begun to really like a 50 weight for piecing. For quilting I love the 40 weight. My piecing seams don't have to be quite as scant as when using the 40. I wind my own bobbins so whatever thread I am using in the top is what I use in the bottom, both on my longarm and all sewing machines. Of course, this gives me the illusion that my seams are all very well balanced when sometimes it is not true. LOL That's when a bit of backstitching, to anchor the seam at the beginning and the end, really comes in handy. I use a 1.8 or 2.0 setting for all normal piecing stitch length. I find this really helps my seams stay together. Sometimes, I have had my machines argue with me if I try to go too fast using this setting, but I just slow down a bit and it all works out.

I am going to use that bobbin idea for keeping the thread coming off the cones more correctly. I have used every guide on my Brother machines to make sure the thread doesn't spool off too much at a time and have worked out a system that works, but sometimes I don't remember how I threaded it the last time. And I think that would work on my longarm too. I rarely use anything less than 5000 yard cones. The cost savings for 5000 vs 1100 yards is significant, regardless of which thread you like.
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