a_daerr

Hi everyone! I'm actually not a "quilter," but I started sewing in order to start a dog collar business. I was wondering if the experience quilter could answer a few questions related to monofilament, invisible thread. This is what the long-time martingale collar-makers use, and unfortunately, no one wants to give away

Is there anyway to get a secure knot?? In order to close up the ends, I have to actually sew off the edge. But as soon as I cut the thread away, the knot immediately comes undone, which results in these scratchy little pieces coming out. This happens no matter how much I backstitch. Since a dog will be wearing the collar, I'm afraid this is going to rub against their neck. I read an article that says to microstitch (25-30 stitches per square inch) for the first and last eight or so stitches. What does that translate to when my stitch length setting which is given in millimeters? I'm using on a basic Brother CS6000i. Also, does it make a difference if I use cotton thread in the bobbin, or monofilament as well?

Lori S

I would not use cotton thread in the bobbin. When a dog gets wet .. the underside of the collar and the area at the chest are the last to dry. This could result in the cotton thread rotting or degrading. For a bobbin thread I would use 100 percent polyester thread. As for securing the stitches the a shorter length helps but I back tack going several stitches reverse and several forward three or four times... and sometimes for an inch . Monofiliment thread is really slippery stuff.. it just does not "secure" the way regular thread will.

Dina

I don't know if this will help, but I set my stitch guide to 1. to start and finish. A normal stitch length is 2.5 on my machine. I stitch 5-7 times when I start and stop. I have no idea if that will work with monofiliment thread. I guess it is worth a try though, if my numbers help any, that is.

Dina

Tartan

​How about securing the ends with a drop of super glue?

Prism99

Is your monofilament thread nylon? The way I have secured it is with the tiny stitches. In terms of stitch size setting on my machine, that doesn't matter as much as the thickness of what you are working with. I recommend taking a sample of the layers you are working with and experimenting. When I do applique with monofilament thread, all it takes for me is about 5 tiny stitches at the 2mm to 3mm setting on my machine. When quilting through batting, though, the setting needs to be longer in order to get the thicker stuff to feed far enough to make a tiny stitch (instead of just stitching in place).

There are "invisible" threads made out of polyester rather than nylon. I haven't worked much with those, so not sure if they handle exactly the same.

DOTTYMO

I like the idea of glue but make sure it becomes invisible when dry and does not wash out. Just looked at my sleeping dog's collar and it has been finished with a larger stitch in a matching polyester thread. The collar she is wearing has been washed frequently . The other dog is wearing a leather collar stitched more with a thick thread, not sure if cotton or poly as she want move enough to look, fast asleep. Love the collar so very bright and cheerful. For my dogs it looks a little too deep..

Scraplady

Have you tried tucking the thread tails by hand? Leave a long thread tail rather than cutting close to the fabric, thread it onto a hand sewing needle. Run it back and forth between the layers a few times, then clip it right at the fabric surface. This works if there is a batting as there appears to be some sort of batting or interfacing in your photo. I've only done it a few times with monofilament thread so can't attest to how well it holds over time. Just a suggestion. I do it with my thread ends when machine quilting if I have to stop and start in the middle of a block because I can't stand having a knot or even any thread build-up. It does work great with cotton thread and batting.

a_daerr

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!! I'm working with heavyweight polypropelene webbing, both sides wrapped in cotton fabric, with one of the pieces interfaced. It is VERY thick and difficult to sew through. Hand-sewing is probably out, but I like the idea of back tacking (if I can get it to look right aesthetically. I will definitely shop around to see what I can find by way of fabric glue.

I should also add that I tried Sulky polyester invisible and hated it! It was always snapping or jamming up in the bobbin. It's likely due to my error, though. I believe the tension has to be adjusted.

pocoellie

I can't really help you with the "thread" question but I absolutely hate monofilament thread and won't use it, for the exact same reason that you're asking the question.

yngldy

How about melting the thread? You could touch it with a hot iron. Hopefully, that will melt it. Practice first to see just how hot it has to be to melt without burning the fabric, and/or melting into the other stitches. I would back stitch a time or two THEN hit with hot iron. When using fishing line, a lighter flame on the end keeps the knot from untying.

Know what you mean about Sulky invisible thread. I had problems with it too. It kept breaking, even after I changed needles, adjusted tension, etc. I took it off, took hold of the end and pulled it off the spool. I kept getting pieces of thread. I looked on the thread on the spool and could not find a "slash". The only thing I could figure was that they put end pieces on the spool as it was not continual. Never bought Sulky again! I love the Mettler invisible. It is very thin and does not leave pokies as it is soft. Not sure how it would work for the strength that you need though.