Seam allowances -
#1
Power Poster
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
Seam allowances -
Again - this is not a new topic - but it may be new info for new members -
Seam width does matter - but not as much as - is the finished block/unit the size you intend it to be?
This is a good video to check what one is doing:
http://www.fonsandporter.com/article...s_Video_Lesson
Cutting also matters.
If one's "4.5 (4-1/2)" inch cut squares are actually 4.375 (4-3/8) or 4.625 (4-5/8) inches - it won't matter how "perfect" your seam allowances are - the end result will be off.
So - the point of this post is: If your units/blocks are not ending up the size you want them to be, the seam allowance is only one place that corrections /changes may need to be made.
Seam width does matter - but not as much as - is the finished block/unit the size you intend it to be?
This is a good video to check what one is doing:
http://www.fonsandporter.com/article...s_Video_Lesson
Cutting also matters.
If one's "4.5 (4-1/2)" inch cut squares are actually 4.375 (4-3/8) or 4.625 (4-5/8) inches - it won't matter how "perfect" your seam allowances are - the end result will be off.
So - the point of this post is: If your units/blocks are not ending up the size you want them to be, the seam allowance is only one place that corrections /changes may need to be made.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 4,688
That is a good video . I am a little more laid back about the cut size since I know that I can work with a block that is cut no more than 1/8" off by matching it with a correctly sized block and sewing the seam allowance based on the correctly sized piece.
What is important to me is that the sewn blocks are the correct size. I always measure a sample sewn block to make sure I have the seam allowance I need. My favorite way to set my seam allowance is using a lined note card since the lines are 1/4" apart. The primary reason I check the seam for measuring the sewn blocks is I find that not all fabrics are the same weight, so the "scant" 1/4" seam my differ depending on the fabric. I like to build a "fence" to control my seam allowance since I have found that if I don't place my chair in exactly the same place, the width of the seam may wander because I have changed the angle I am looking at a line or the edge of the presser foot. The fence ( a stack of notecards or blue painters tape) give me a consistent guide that does not change if my chair moves a bit to the left or right.
What is important to me is that the sewn blocks are the correct size. I always measure a sample sewn block to make sure I have the seam allowance I need. My favorite way to set my seam allowance is using a lined note card since the lines are 1/4" apart. The primary reason I check the seam for measuring the sewn blocks is I find that not all fabrics are the same weight, so the "scant" 1/4" seam my differ depending on the fabric. I like to build a "fence" to control my seam allowance since I have found that if I don't place my chair in exactly the same place, the width of the seam may wander because I have changed the angle I am looking at a line or the edge of the presser foot. The fence ( a stack of notecards or blue painters tape) give me a consistent guide that does not change if my chair moves a bit to the left or right.
#3
Power Poster
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
That is a good video . I am a little more laid back about the cut size since I know that I can work with a block that is cut no more than 1/8" off by matching it with a correctly sized block and sewing the seam allowance based on the correctly sized piece.
What is important to me is that the sewn blocks are the correct size. I always measure a sample sewn block to make sure I have the seam allowance I need. My favorite way to set my seam allowance is using a lined note card since the lines are 1/4" apart. The primary reason I check the seam for measuring the sewn blocks is I find that not all fabrics are the same weight, so the "scant" 1/4" seam my differ depending on the fabric. I like to build a "fence" to control my seam allowance since I have found that if I don't place my chair in exactly the same place, the width of the seam may wander because I have changed the angle I am looking at a line or the edge of the presser foot. The fence ( a stack of notecards or blue painters tape) give me a consistent guide that does not change if my chair moves a bit to the left or right.
What is important to me is that the sewn blocks are the correct size. I always measure a sample sewn block to make sure I have the seam allowance I need. My favorite way to set my seam allowance is using a lined note card since the lines are 1/4" apart. The primary reason I check the seam for measuring the sewn blocks is I find that not all fabrics are the same weight, so the "scant" 1/4" seam my differ depending on the fabric. I like to build a "fence" to control my seam allowance since I have found that if I don't place my chair in exactly the same place, the width of the seam may wander because I have changed the angle I am looking at a line or the edge of the presser foot. The fence ( a stack of notecards or blue painters tape) give me a consistent guide that does not change if my chair moves a bit to the left or right.
Good suggestions. Some older machines have a seam guide that one can screw to the machine.I don't know if the newer ones do or not. Some machines also have lines etched into the top for guides.
#4
One thing I learned the hard way was to use the same machine throughout. I love piecing on my Featherweight downstairs but I was working on my Bernina and switched- bad idea.
Now I use one machine only per quilt.
Now I use one machine only per quilt.
#5
Power Poster
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
One can use more than one machine - one just needs to "verify" that one is making the seam allowances are the same .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post