Sunflower stainglass pattern information
#1
Sunflower stainglass pattern information
For those that wanted the pattern information for the stainglass sunflower table top pattern....
Pattern is from book Stained Glass Table Runners --The Exquisite Table by Brenda Henning (Bear Paw Productions). There are 3 other patterns in the book. The sunflower was actually really easy to do. The 'lead' is black Clover fusible bias tape which I totally recommend. It's probably the most expensive part of the runner but worth it versus making your own. You'll also need 100% woven fusible interfacing. Mine came with the kit so need to find where I can get some to make more. Hoping Joann's carries it. I've included a few construction photos as well.
Here are some of my notes for construction:
CONSTRUCTION:
I washed and dried the finished quilt and had to repair some spots that pulled out. I did not prewash and have now highlighted that section in the book!: Pre-wash & dry all fabric, batting, backing to reduce shrinkage. Cut pattern pieces almost 1/8” inch bigger than freezer paper templates. Pieces should overlap before putting on lead lines. If they just butt up to each other or overlap slightly, the fabric will pull away and out from underneath lead lines after (non-agitated) wash!!!
Used open toe foot and sewed down each side of lead lines which worked fine but a little cumbersome because had to constantly turn quilt but quilt is small enough that it's doable. Can also zig zag. Have fun!
Pattern is from book Stained Glass Table Runners --The Exquisite Table by Brenda Henning (Bear Paw Productions). There are 3 other patterns in the book. The sunflower was actually really easy to do. The 'lead' is black Clover fusible bias tape which I totally recommend. It's probably the most expensive part of the runner but worth it versus making your own. You'll also need 100% woven fusible interfacing. Mine came with the kit so need to find where I can get some to make more. Hoping Joann's carries it. I've included a few construction photos as well.
Here are some of my notes for construction:
- Used regular black Aurifil thread
- Open foot
- #10 needle
- Did not work to FMQ the lead lines because the thread kept skipping—not sure if due to needle size or larger thread size. Book says to use YLI lingerie thread which is thinner than aurifil
- Used 2-1/4 inch for binding instead of 2 inch.
- Did not have to cut binding on the bias—worked just fine to cut straight of grain and going around gentle curve
CONSTRUCTION:
I washed and dried the finished quilt and had to repair some spots that pulled out. I did not prewash and have now highlighted that section in the book!: Pre-wash & dry all fabric, batting, backing to reduce shrinkage. Cut pattern pieces almost 1/8” inch bigger than freezer paper templates. Pieces should overlap before putting on lead lines. If they just butt up to each other or overlap slightly, the fabric will pull away and out from underneath lead lines after (non-agitated) wash!!!
Used open toe foot and sewed down each side of lead lines which worked fine but a little cumbersome because had to constantly turn quilt but quilt is small enough that it's doable. Can also zig zag. Have fun!
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