Autograph blocks
04-17-2013, 10:55 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 416
I did this for my parent's 50th wedding anniversary. I purchased the Pigma Micron pens and actually sent them with the fabric squares. Luckily my dad's family was concentrated in one area. So I sent squares and pens to an aunt and asked her to get them signed.
I also recommend putting blue painters tape around the edges to 'frame' the area to be signed - so no one writes in the seam allowance.
You need to specify that ONLY those pens can be used. Even with that instruction someone signed one square with a different pen. When it got wet (with spray starch the writing bled.
I do not recommend the Sharpie markers. I have seen where they are NOT recommended for fabrric. This is what it says on the Sharpie website:
Why does the Sharpie packaging say it is not for letter writing or cloth?We do not recommend the Sharpie for letter writing as it is solvent base ink and will soak through paper. We also do not recommend the Sharpie for use on cloth as it may fade or bleed in the wash. Also, over time a yellow halo may appear around the marking.
I also recommend putting blue painters tape around the edges to 'frame' the area to be signed - so no one writes in the seam allowance.
You need to specify that ONLY those pens can be used. Even with that instruction someone signed one square with a different pen. When it got wet (with spray starch the writing bled.
I do not recommend the Sharpie markers. I have seen where they are NOT recommended for fabrric. This is what it says on the Sharpie website:
Why does the Sharpie packaging say it is not for letter writing or cloth?We do not recommend the Sharpie for letter writing as it is solvent base ink and will soak through paper. We also do not recommend the Sharpie for use on cloth as it may fade or bleed in the wash. Also, over time a yellow halo may appear around the marking.
04-17-2013, 01:23 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Marion, IA
Posts: 462
I recommend the Pentel Gel Roller Pen for Fabric. The ink flows very nicely, but you may need more than one pen. I suggest you send scrap fabric, so each person can "get the feel" of the pen before using and send extra fabric for mistakes. Search the net for good buys. I've been able to buy a box of 12 for $1.68 per pen.
http://www.pentel.com/store/gel-roller-for-fabric
http://www.pentel.com/store/gel-roller-for-fabric
04-17-2013, 02:19 PM
#14
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
all the 'pre-treating' your fabric needs is to be pre-washed- with detergent...no fabric softener- so you remove any sizing/chemicals/oils in the fabric...then have everyone use good permenent fabric pens (or micron pigma pens) when you receive the blocks back heat set each one- they should last for years to come
04-18-2013, 04:44 AM
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,806
Originally Posted by Jan in VA
1. Use 100% cotton fabric.
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
04-18-2013, 05:10 AM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky live in WV
Posts: 8,482
Thanks for the great signature tips (especially using the freezer paper.)
Originally Posted by Jan in VA
1. Use 100% cotton fabric.
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
04-18-2013, 07:11 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 230
Please instruct them NOT to use old-fashioned "INK" pens. Had someone do that once & it absolutely ruined the project - to the point I never finished it! If folks that are older will be signing, it might be good for you to stress this in your letter/note to them. My father would pull his pen out and use it without thinking! Just saying.
And good luck on the project! Be sure to post a photo...
And good luck on the project! Be sure to post a photo...
04-18-2013, 10:30 AM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: near Peoria Illinois
Posts: 1,638
Originally Posted by Jan in VA
1. Use 100% cotton fabric.
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
04-18-2013, 12:34 PM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 1,086
Originally Posted by Jan in VA
1. Use 100% cotton fabric.
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
2. Use Pigma pens in 05 size. (This is going to be a problem for you with blocks going all over the US. Maybe having them sign in pencil with you writing over that signature with a Pigma pen will solve the problem.)
3. Back the signature are of the fabric with a piece of ironed on freezer paper (from Reynold's, in the grocery store); This stabilizes the area for the pen, and can be peeled off after the blocks are signed.
4. Press the signature blocks with a dry iron before you wash the finished quilt.
Jan in VA
The freezer paper backing stiffens the paper enough to sign it - but do specify that they are not to sign the paper (I had to trace an entire classroom's signatures onto a block after they signed the paper not the fabric.
I also heartily agree with the tip to frame the area you want signed with the blue painter's tape as non quilters don't get "sign in the middle of the block" as a way to avoid losing their signature in the seam allowance.
Cheers, K
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