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Thread: Continous Bias Strips -- HELP PLEASE!!!!

  1. #1
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    I need some bias strips for applique. I get to the part about "With right sides together, match lines with pins at the 1/4" seamline and stitch seam".

    Every time I try this, the lines don't add up where they join. What am I doing wrong? :( I just don't get how to match the lines when forming the tube.

  2. #2
    Izy
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    Dont you just move it over one?? I think I have a diagram on the laptop..If I do will post it for you :D

    Here's a link to Fons & Porter tute :D

    http://www.fonsandporter.com/userdoc...-contbias1.pdf

  3. #3
    Super Member Marcia's Avatar
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    http://www.mccallsquilting.com/lesso...ls/index7.html

    Here is a tutorial that looks really good and may answer your question. It is really hard to explain without a diagram.

  4. #4
    Senior Member kathyd's Avatar
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    I would use the Fons and Porter link. I have this page bookmarked in one of their books and I reference it often.

  5. #5
    Community Manager PatriceJ's Avatar
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    oooooooooooo - kewl! i saved them both, but like the fact that McCalls tells you how large the squares should be to get various lengths of bias. :-)

  6. #6
    Super Member lfw045's Avatar
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  7. #7
    mgshaw's Avatar
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    Whatcha' makin'? :?

  8. #8
    Super Member mary quite contrary's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I'll use it too.

    Don't you all just love this board?

  9. #9
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    lfw045 - Thank you for the link to the video, it was helpful - if I can't figure out how to do the continuous bias strips, I'll do it that way.

    Thank you Izy and Marcia for your links - It's at step 4 that I just don't get. After moving over one line, I just don't get how to align the pins and raw edges and lines.

    I think I've got a mental block! I don't get it!!! If I could actually see it being done, I might get it then!


  10. #10
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgshaw
    Whatcha' makin'? :?
    Well, I think you'll like this Melissa - It's the "Constitution and Union Forever" quilt on page 44 of Barbara Brackmans' Quilts from the CW book.
    It will probably take me forever, especially since I'm already stuck on the the first step - making the bias for vines. :oops:

  11. #11
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    kathyd - I have the laminated bias binding sheet from Fons and Porter - but I still don't get it :oops:

    mary quite contrary - Yes!! I do love this board!

  12. #12
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatriceJ
    oooooooooooo - kewl! i saved them both, but like the fact that McCalls tells you how large the squares should be to get various lengths of bias. :-)
    Yes, that is "kewl"! This way I don't cut more than I need!

  13. #13
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    I dont have that book, darn it! I am not sure if I am understanding what you are not getting but let me give it a shot. After you mark your lines and pull the two edges together, to offset the lines match the first line of one edge to the second line of the other edge. At that line, put a pin on the line 1/4" from the edge then put the pin through the other edge of fabric on the line 1/4"from the edge. That should match up you lines. I hope this makes sense! :-)

  14. #14
    Super Member lfw045's Avatar
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loretta
    Thank you for the great tutes. I have a dumb question-- aren't we supposed to use straight grain cut pieces for quilt binding? Unless it is curved binding of course. I thought the straght grain made a stronger binding? I'm confused.
    Loretta, she is asking about bias for making applique. For binding it is better to use straight grain unless its for scalloped or curved edged quilts.

  16. #16
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgshaw
    I dont have that book, darn it! I am not sure if I am understanding what you are not getting but let me give it a shot. After you mark your lines and pull the two edges together, to offset the lines match the first line of one edge to the second line of the other edge. At that line, put a pin on the line 1/4" from the edge then put the pin through the other edge of fabric on the line 1/4"from the edge. That should match up you lines. I hope this makes sense! :-)
    OK - I get the offset part, but it's the pinning that I'm confused about. Do you put the pin parallel to the cut edge, or does it go a 1/4 from the cut edge through the lines (lining them up so they are on top of each other) or are the lines crossed, kind of like an x?

    I'm just going to have to keep trying on cheap fabric till I get it right. When I tried, I sewed the seam, the lines were criss crossed, not on top of each other so the lines at the intersection did not line up, they were off.

  17. #17
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loretta
    Thank you for the great tutes. I have a dumb question-- aren't we supposed to use straight grain cut pieces for quilt binding? Unless it is curved binding of course. I thought the straght grain made a stronger binding? I'm confused.
    Not a dumb question at all!!

    With all these tutorials, I still can't get the continuous thing right!! :roll:

  18. #18
    mgshaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearpaw
    Quote Originally Posted by mgshaw
    I dont have that book, darn it! I am not sure if I am understanding what you are not getting but let me give it a shot. After you mark your lines and pull the two edges together, to offset the lines match the first line of one edge to the second line of the other edge. At that line, put a pin on the line 1/4" from the edge then put the pin through the other edge of fabric on the line 1/4"from the edge. That should match up you lines. I hope this makes sense! :-)
    OK - I get the offset part, but it's the pinning that I'm confused about. Do you put the pin parallel to the cut edge, or does it go a 1/4 from the cut edge through the lines (lining them up so they are on top of each other) or are the lines crossed, kind of like an x?

    I'm just going to have to keep trying on cheap fabric till I get it right. When I tried, I sewed the seam, the lines were criss crossed, not on top of each other so the lines at the intersection did not line up, they were off.


    I think (it has been a while since I have done this) that when you put the pin in (just like when you are matching points, straight down through both pieces) that the lines will be sort of an x, and after they are sewed and opened they should be straight.

  19. #19
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgshaw
    I think (it has been a while since I have done this) that when you put the pin in (just like when you are matching points, straight down through both pieces) that the lines will be sort of an x, and after they are sewed and opened they should be straight.
    All right, I'll try again.

    I found a picture of the quilt I'm making on-line:

    http://www.nbquilts.org/images/BlueR...x/quiltp47.jpg

  20. #20
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    I like that! Very pretty!
    You know, you could just cut strips from the lines you marked and then just join the ends with a 45 degree angle. Might be a whole lot less headache! But if you're like me, I have to keep going until I get it figured out!

  21. #21
    bearpaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgshaw
    I like that! Very pretty!
    You know, you could just cut strips from the lines you marked and then just join the ends with a 45 degree angle. Might be a whole lot less headache! But if you're like me, I have to keep going until I get it figured out!
    Looks like I'm going to just cut the strips this time, and I'll keep trying to figure it out.

    Thanks, everyone for your help!

  22. #22
    Super Member mary quite contrary's Avatar
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    Bearpaw, I just did this technique and it was something I had to really think about. After all of that I wasn't real thrilled with it. I ended up with a couple seams right close together. It did make a long strip of bias but I could have put the ends under flowers.

    All that to say I think cutting them the good old way makes a lot of sense to me.

  23. #23
    dae
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    I believe BearPaw is making strips for applique, not binding. Yes , straight binding is usually better for quilt binding, but should be bias for going around curves.
    JoANN's YOUR GUIDE TO QUILTING has GREAT pictures and directions for doing bias tubes for applique, ,AND further back in the book,the continuous bias long strips.. It does take some study and trial, but you have to OFFSET the lines by one mark/line you have drawn, and THEN cut on lines to make LONG bias strips.

  24. #24
    dae
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    Maybe the reason it didn't come out even,,,, did you cut off any extra material after you drew the lines? ALL the widths of fabric between the marked lines must be EQUAl, or it won't work right. Maybe that is the problem??

  25. #25
    Super Member retrogirl02's Avatar
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    When you look at the F&P tute, the illustration where you begin cutting is flat but it's actually a tube at that point. It's easy to do once you try it. Your first time can be a little frustrating but hang in there, this technique is SO worth the effort. :D

    I always make much more than I'll need because if I want to add it as an embellishment to match (like pillowcases) or for a completely different project, it's already done. I tend to use bright colors that will easily mix with other projects rather than match the background fabrics but if you really like it, make a lot & skip this step next time.

    I store mine on scrap cardboard that sometimes comes in FQs or pieces of cereal box cut into rectangles and just wrap my leftovers. I also press in half before I cut to size which makes it really easy to apply by machine with an invisible stitch and roll to the back where I blind stitch & store for future projects.

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