bearisgray

1/64 of an inch seam allowance variation may not seem like much - but on 8 seams that is 16/64 - 1/ 4 inch variation.

If all the units are the same size squares - the finished product might be smaller or larger than expected - but will go together without many problems.

if all your blocks are the same size - and the same block - you can probably " safely" proceed. But if you are using sashings , they would need to be adjusted for length.

mmunchkins

and NEVER switch machines midproject. Ask me how I know.

sewingpup

Ha, I solved my problem with trying to get a great seam on my higher end wide feed dog does fancy stitches and embroidery machine....by...wait for it...getting a lower end smaller 5mm narrower feed dog machine! Love it, no more fiddling trying to figure it out with the wide feeddog machine. And as a bonus, my smaller machine is easier to take to retreats and classes where I don't need all the features on my other machine. A straight stitch machine would work as well and that could also work for a free motion machine too. I still love my does everything machine but it is a pain for piecing. So, my smaller machine sits in my cabinet for piecing and the larger machine can go in the cabinet if needed but....it sits on top of the cabinet anyway when I am doing embroidery. Win, win.

charlottequilts

Another work-around is to make the blocks a little bit bigger than you want and trim them down. It adds steps but gives you wiggle room, which I need, myself.

And use a clapper. They're easy to make. If you don't have one, put a cloth on top of one of your blocks after pressing and put a heavy book on top. It can make a huge difference. (real clappers are better if you're going to add them to your process.)

My clappers are made with scrap wood and are adjustable in terms of weight (using ankle weights.)
hugs,
charlotte

WesternWilson

I sold my first, very expensive, sewing machine because the feed dogs would always grab the fabric at the end of the seam and cause wobbles. I noticed in classes that Bernina machines and Juki machines did not do that, and switched my machine!!

Past that a consistent 1/4" seam is a product of practice. If you want to do accurate piecing and have your intersections and points come out perfectly, you must master accurate seam width.

Note that you must also be cutting accurately. If your pieces are not cut accurately, you are not going to be able to save the block with 1/4" seams!

That said, fabric is forgiving, and you can pin it into submission if you are close to the 1/4" seam. Use Clover Extra Fine pins to make intersections meet.

I hate the term "scant 1/4"...because what is THAT??!! Use the edge of your 1/4" foot but be sure your needle is indeed positioned 1/4" from the side of the foot.

If you practice a simple Ohio Star quilt block, photo below, and master getting those seams consistent and matching, you will have mastered 99% of quilting blocks!

https://sewcanshe.com/how-to-make-an...step-tutorial/

Onebyone

To keep your seam from veering at the end, put your left index finger on the side of the foot as it finishes sewing. Your seam will stay straight. I use a Juki straight stitch machine for piecing. I have an older machine that has the decorative stitches that I seldom if ever use. Juki has two 1/4 feet one is for a scant 1/4" and one has a guide for a full 1/4". Another thing to check on your machine. Most line markings on the face plate are measured in metric from the center of the needle hole. Even if it has the 1/4 and so forth markings. Measure the seam from the needle before trusting the marked line.

platyhiker

As bearisgray wrote, you want to focus on what size your units are ending up. There are two possible causes of problems: cutting that is slightly off, or seams that are slightly off. (A person can have problems with one or both.) I suspect a lot of starting quilters have problems with being slightly off in their cutting, and one piece of evidence that supports my theory is that many people who switch to cutting out their pieces with dies (such as by the Go! Fabric Cutter) report that their piecing becomes more accurate. It is very important to get the measuring line of your ruler *all* the way onto the fabric, not next to the edge or part way on.

bearisgray wrote a good test to do with sewing four strips together. I highly recommend doing that test and then pay particular attention to the width of inner two strips. Each of them should be exactly two inches wide, the whole length of the strip. If they are not, either your cutting or seam width needs adjusting. If you've *thoroughly* checked, your cutting results, then you can work on fine tuning your seam width.

For avoiding problems with the tendency of many machines to want to swerve at the end of seams, I have found using a walking foot to be very helpful.

sloscotty

Thank you all for the suggestions. I had some strips cut for double sashing that I hadn't yet sewn together and used those as a quick test (part of the current projejct so not four wide like suggested). I double checked the cut measurement and they were right on. However, after sewing and pressing (seams open), I lost about 1/16 inch. So i need to adjust my 1/4" marks and try again. At least I know where to look.

I'm almost done with this project (place mats and table runner), so before my next project (full size quilt), I will do more extensive testing and practice.

(Salsa Table set design below)

MeadowMist

I've been quilting for 10+ years and that 1/4" is one of my biggest problems. I always overcut - I have to, if I don't many of my blocks will be under size (and many will be oversize). I also dislike the "scant" 1/4". My feeling about that is that if they want us to stitch a seam a scant 1/4" they should make a presser foot that measures a scant 1/4". One thing that I recently discovered and that has helped is that my machine has an adjustable needle. I can move it a tiny bit to the left or right. If I adjust it to the right spot and use my 1/4" foot I end up with seams that are a scant 1/4". So if you haven't yet, check to see if your machine has this feature. I've had my machine for 10 years and can't believe I never knew this existed until a couple of months ago.

sloscotty

My machine doesn't have that feature (unfortunately). It is a recently-resuscitated, 70's Montgomery Wards machine that sews like a dream. It is a real work horse and I love it, but am still learning how to get the best 1/4 seam for piecing. (I think I'm zeroing in on it.)

On the other hand, I am learning how to "square-up" stuff as I go - which is valuable in itself. Below is an example of how far off i've been (the block should have been 9.5" - like the pieces I'm trimming).