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Thread: Duh! (and another newbie question about thread)

  1. #26
    rayone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathe
    Ask your instructor what kind of thread she thinks you should use. That's why you are paying to take a class. :wink:
    You know... I thought of that but I have to have the thread before I go to class tonite and I was afraid they would try roping me into buying the expensive thread in the store....you know... their "recommendations". I wanted to have some basis of knowledge before I head in there.

  2. #27
    rayone's Avatar
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    Thank you everyone for your responses. :)

  3. #28
    Super Member wraez's Avatar
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    I agree with any of the neutral threads, maybe a cream or beige if you are making the quilt in an ecru or beige.

    I have been using Connecting Threads for years and love it, low fuzz, 100% cotton Egyptian long staple...really inexpensive compared to other big name threads. Recently bought a couple of their 5000yd cones that only cost $7.99 ...oh my gosh how can you beat that? Use the coupon code FPSHIP to get free shipping.

    For the bobbin I highly recommend Superior Threads Bottom Line ... You can get it at a great price at Sewthankful.com it is cheaper there than from Superior threads. I have found that any of the lighter colored Bottom Line will work with light quilt backs and a darker thread will work for any dark fabrics.

    Also, if you have any questions on threads, what kind to use cotton vs poly etc. Superior Threads has a great educational page.

    Have a great time in your class and please post pix when you get your quilt going, we love photos.

    warm quilt hugs, sue

  4. #29

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    My favorite thread is Aurafil. It's hard to lay out $10 for a spool but they last forever!!! It is also not the easiest item to find and when I do, there are limited colors available. But I can find grey, cream and white quite easily. For piecing I use grey primarily but with lighter fabrics, I use cream and white. If I'm sewing on a border of something like solid black or red, I do try to match the color as it seems to be more evident in borders than in piecing.

  5. #30
    Super Member wraez's Avatar
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    Some great Aurifil thread prices here....looks like lots of colors too

    http://www.carmenwarehouse.com/shop/...ction=0&page=1

    I have never used it, I hear lots of people love it.

    They have so many weights available, and that is when I get stumped on which of the Aurifil threads to purchase... too many choices, LOL

    Hope these prices are better than what you normally pay

    warm quilt hugs, sue

  6. #31
    Super Member mar32428's Avatar
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    I felt the same way when I first started. Most quilters in my sewing group insist that you should only use cotton thread for cotton quilts. I have been using poly thread but you do have to be careful and wind slowly on your bobbin because it stretches and will leave puckers. To pick colors, i lay several possibilities out on my fabric to see how it blends. I even sew with different ones on my scrap pieces to see the result.

  7. #32
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kluedesigns
    i use neutral shades for all my piecing (cream, taupe, grey, etc).

    the only time i worry that my thread must match the fabric in color is when i'm pressing the seams open.

    if you press the seams to one side you really won't see the thread used for piecing.

    fashion sewing requires matching thread much more than quilters do.
    I agree with Klue. I rarely used white (even when I'm sewing on white. I use a neutral (ivory, cream, gray, etc.) It's a good way to use up those bobbins. Then when they're empty, I reload with the neutrals. I also use colors that blend into the prints. Actually the only time I'm particular about matching thread is for machine quilting.

  8. #33
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mar32428
    I felt the same way when I first started. Most quilters in my sewing group insist that you should only use cotton thread for cotton quilts. I have been using poly thread but you do have to be careful and wind slowly on your bobbin because it stretches and will leave puckers. To pick colors, i lay several possibilities out on my fabric to see how it blends. I even sew with different ones on my scrap pieces to see the result.
    HMM, I didn't know about the stretching of the poly thread. So that's why it puckers. Thanks.

  9. #34
    Super Member quiltmom04's Avatar
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    If you HAVE to buy thread - I use a grey or beige neutral. BUT if you are doing a scrap, or one that has lots of colors and it's hard to identify a specific color - it's a great chance to use ANY color that would suit. Use one color on top and another in the bobbin. I prefer to sew with a slightly smaller stitch - 2.0 on my Pfaff, so unless I actually force the seam open to see the threads, I can use almost any color. Great way to use up ends of spools - and buy new thread. My favorites are Aurifil 50 wt. Superior Threads So Fine and Masterpiece by Alex Anderson.

  10. #35
    Super Member mar32428's Avatar
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    Hi Gail, Louise Cutting had a shop for several years here in Orlando. I often took classes from her. I was talking about the seams puckering on my slacks and no amount of pressing could get them out. then came the poly info. No matter what your age, (I'm 81), you're never too old to learn. She said that the new machines which I have, wind so fast and poly stretches.

  11. #36
    Super Member quiltmom04's Avatar
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    Sounds more like a tension problem with the machine that could be adjusted, or perhaps you might be stretching the fabric as you sew it, and when you release it, the stitches pucker. I have a new machine and have had no problem with polyester threads - unless you get those really cheap ones - a few for a dollar or whatever.

  12. #37
    Super Member GailG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mar32428
    Hi Gail, Louise Cutting had a shop for several years here in Orlando. I often took classes from her. I was talking about the seams puckering on my slacks and no amount of pressing could get them out. then came the poly info. No matter what your age, (I'm 81), you're never too old to learn. She said that the new machines which I have, wind so fast and poly stretches.
    Well, I'm almost 69 and have a degree in Home Economics. Don't remember ever being told that little bit of info. (Of course, at that time my head was "in the clouds" most of the time.) Good to know. I was always trying to adjust my tension. You're right about those puckery seams.

  13. #38
    Super Member mar32428's Avatar
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    Hi quiltmom. No, It's not a tension problem. When we went to the sewing expo last Feb. I ask several thread people there about it. They all agreed that with the speed of the new (especially computer) machines, that can be a problem. They talked about revolutions etc. which kinda went over my head but I got the general idea.

  14. #39
    Super Member mar32428's Avatar
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    I'm like you, Gail. Back then, the machines were slower. I have no stretch problem on my trusty Featherweight cause it is SOOO much slower.

  15. #40
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    I was always told......cotton on cotton on cotton. That means cotton fabric, cotton thread and cotton batting (like Quilters Dream Cotton Batting). I always use a neutral threads also - beige for lights and greys for darker tones for. I prefer Mettler products and also YLI 100% Cotton Long Staple Thread, 40/2 ply. I get a lot of my YLI from Red Rock Threads on line.

    American thread is not made as well because it has short fibers in the thread and can break easily. European threads are better and stronger because the fibers are longer. I've been quilting since '96 and was taught all of this and firmly believe this information. These are for piecing. For quilting the tops I go crazy and use Mettler Polysheen because it is strong and the threads won't snap (unlike rayon).

  16. #41
    Super Member mar32428's Avatar
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    Very good thinking, Myra. I also use Mettler and agree about the American threads. Your quilt is only as good as the thread that holds it together.

  17. #42
    Junior Member mocha827's Avatar
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    Do not use a thick thread or your seams will be too bulky. I use Bottom Line from Superior for my piecing and I love it. It is hard to believe that a single thread thickness makes that much difference, but I promise you - sometimes it can make a BIG difference.

    Good luck with your class and just remember that there are about as many ways to quilt and piece as there are quilters and piecers. If you like to something a different way, then do you own thing! The only thing that matters is if you are happy with the result.

  18. #43
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    I bought some Superior Thread by Alex Andersen and it breaks :? constantly. I have changed the tension, the needle, the thickness of the fabric and nothing helps. Very frustrating! If I change the top thread to another brand, it works fine. My machine is a Bernina 440.

  19. #44
    Super Member wraez's Avatar
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    Gayle, Superior thread should not be giving you these problems.

    Contact them direct and they will assist you with the thread breaking problem.

    warm quilt hugs, sue

  20. #45
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    Thank you Sue! I did contact Superior Threads and they responded quickly. I tried their suggestions and the thread worked for awhile but then it started breaking again. Not worth the effort. I went and bought a different brand of thread.

  21. #46
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    MadQuilter - is that really true?!?! That poor girl.

  22. #47
    Junior Member ProLongarmARTQUILTER's Avatar
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    I use cotton/Poly Or Monofilament which is Poly, But so is my fabrics Cotton/Poly, Balance your Threads and if you have to use the same thread top and bottom. I use Bobbin thread sometimes but it is the same weight and Poly like the top. Use Less Tension for Mono or Embro. Threads.

  23. #48
    Super Member Shemjo's Avatar
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    I use neutrals for most everything sewing. I use the Sidewinder for bobbins and haven't had the puckering problem. :lol:

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