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Embroidery Block quilt help

Embroidery Block quilt help

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Old 12-02-2020, 05:10 AM
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Default Embroidery Block quilt help

Thinking of making a snowman quilt top for my granddaughters for next Christmas with red work blocks. Is it true that embroidery should have a backing (iron on) so that stitches won't show through and small knots are well hidden? Has anyone made a quilt like this and can you advise me? I'm thinking of a Minky backing in red/white also...will this need batting also? As you can tell, I've never made one of these but thought with the pandemic I'll have plenty of time to hand embroider. Thank you ladies.
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Old 12-02-2020, 05:46 AM
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I don’t back my embroidery but I do use a high quality thick quilt fabric. I use an embroidery hoop to work my blocks so I don’t get any wrinkles around my stitches from pulling the stitching too tight. I also like to use the little balls of perle cotton that have just a solid string rather then embroidery floss.
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Old 12-02-2020, 06:19 AM
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I back my embroidery with Pellon 911FF. It blocks just enough to keep "traveling stitches" on the back from showing thru. But of course, it is personal preference. If you try it, don't buy the bolt at first. Try it, wash it and see if the results are what you want. It irons on and there can be little wrinkles here and there. I don't mind it but some might.
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Old 12-02-2020, 06:30 AM
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I have done some red work blocks and did not back them but I did use a hoop. I watched "Quilt Roadies" on Utube and she uses SF101(I think that is the name). It is fusible on one side and gives a little stability to the work. Good luck to you.
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:50 AM
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I use two layers of the same fabric and a hoop. Looks great when pressed.
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Old 12-02-2020, 02:57 PM
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When working with RED embroidery floss, I always pre-wash it. It has a habit of the color running, especially on a white background. Just soak in really hot water, draped over the towel rack until dry. No need to squish it or tumble it while washing.
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:37 PM
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I made a red work snowman quilt a few years ago using the Crabapple Hill Studio pattern. I followed their instructions which include a layer of muslin underneath the main fabric. Just needs large basing stitches after pressing the two layers together. I have made several of their patterns and they have all been prepped that way. I think it gives the embroidery piece more body, a nicer finish.
Before I started using Crabapple Hill designs, I did one by another designer who recommended an iron on stabilizer and that worked well, also, but I just prefer to not have the "glue" of the iron on. Hope you enjoy your project which ever method you choose! I'm sure your DGD will love it.
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Old 12-03-2020, 02:26 AM
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What a fun project you're planning! I've made a Santa quilt in all red, using perle cotton
in a variegated red. I layer my blocks with flannel to prevent the under-stitching from
showing through and I like the extra puffy-ness it gives my embroidery. Wash the flannel
a couple times in HOT water and HOT dryer to be sure it has shrunk. I've also made
several other quilts with embroidered blocks and they have been laundered and held up
well. The advice to soak the thread first is a great one and if you have some Retayne
I'd put some in the water to be sure the thread color is set. Trace your design with a
washable Crayola marker or a pencil made for use on fabric so it will wash out
(Fons and Porter makes one). Good luck and happy embroidering!!
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:32 AM
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Ladies...great advice from everyone! I'm going to go ahead and order the pattern for the snowmen now.
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:26 AM
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I've been hand embroidering the 50 state bird and flower blocks. The transfers are so vintage that the states are written as "Mass." and "Minn." from before the MA and MN, etc, were adopted, LOL. My sister's godmother made her this quilt in the 60's, when she was about 12, and it was always the object of my envy! So I found the transfers were still available and bought them... I have 22 left to embroider but I find it so much fun and relaxing.

I used a good quality muslin to iron the transfer lines onto. Then if I have a long run of thread on the back, I weave it though the backs of other stitches so it won't show up as a single dark thread. On white batting I don't expect any thread on the back to show through.

You don't want to have anything too thick to stitch through, or it will become a real chore to get the needle and thread through it.
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