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  • FMQ vs. Stitch in the Ditch

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    Old 08-14-2016, 02:29 AM
      #11  
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    [QUOTE=Bree123;7626651
    If you are referring to the thread overlapping your design, I use water soluble thread for my SID work so that I get the advantage of the foundation without creating a permanent interruption in my chose FMQ design.[/QUOTE]

    I'll keep this in mind. 👍
    Thanks
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    Old 08-14-2016, 04:42 AM
      #12  
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    Have not tried spray or glue baste for fear it could mess up the needle
    Just wondering if any residue from the spray or glue is picked up or gets stuck on the needle when quilting
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    Old 08-14-2016, 05:26 AM
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    I always stitch the sashing down before doing any other quilting...I like a minimum of quilting so I find this helps me decide just how I will quilt the block...I do a lot of QAYG and just find it steadies the whole quilt so you can do FMQ or straight line quilting...I don't actually quilt in the ditch but along side of it. I have a stitch in the ditch foot and when you move the needle to right or left...it keep the lines straight while it follows the ditch...hope that makes sense..
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    Old 08-14-2016, 09:46 AM
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    Originally Posted by FabQuilter
    Have not tried spray or glue baste for fear it could mess up the needle
    Just wondering if any residue from the spray or glue is picked up or gets stuck on the needle when quilting
    I glue baste all my quilts with Elmer's glue and have never had any problems with getting it on the needle. And I always stitch in the ditch - as Cindy Needham says - ESS (every stinking seam) before doing any FMQ. I do my ESSing free motion and not with a walking foot and have no problems with shifting. There is a video on youtube - search for "glue baste a quilt" and one comes up by Slightly Off Quilter (or something like that). She explains how to dilute the glue and spray it. Very affordable and easy!
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    Old 08-14-2016, 12:40 PM
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    I do not like SITD because it always distorts for me. I prefer a meander stitch.
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    Old 08-14-2016, 03:39 PM
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    I took a class on quilting. If you want to do FMQ all over, say feathers for instance, the instructor told us that you stitch in the ditch with water soluble thread to hold down your rows. You start in the very middle, with both ends rolled up so you can get the quilt through the harp. You sew down one row, then the next row you start at the bottom and sew back up, alternating top and bottom sew down, unrolling as you go. When you finish the one half of the quilt, you go back to the very first row, and move over and sew the next row, unrolling the other side as you go just like the first half. Once you have the rows all sewn down with water soluble thread, you then begin FMQ. Once washed, only your FMQ designs is your quilting.
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    Old 08-14-2016, 04:17 PM
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    There are a bunch of threads on this board on elmers washable school glue for basting. I love it. When it is dry it has never gummed up a needle. I consider it a replacement for pin basting. I don't dilute and spray. I just drizzle it on in a kind of grid. If I get a glob I smooth it out with my finger. Nothing ever shifts. Great stuff
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    Old 08-14-2016, 07:54 PM
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    I'll have to try basting using the spray or glue method in place of pinning. 👍.
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    Old 08-15-2016, 06:08 AM
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    I have SITD in quarters - once down the middle and then again horizontally thru the middle. Then I FMQ the quarters. It seems to hold things in place within shifting much. I also spray baste. Works for me.
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    Old 08-15-2016, 08:38 AM
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    Originally Posted by joe'smom
    When you say the design is distorted, do you mean the FMQ design? I think the SITD is usually done first.

    I haven't done SITD when using an allover design. It seems like it would ruin the effect of the allover FMQ design on the quilt back.
    I just bought some wash away thread for the purpose of SITD with it first, then doing an overall FMQ with regular thread. The theory being the washaway will dissolve in the first washing and will no longer be visible, after it has done its job. You only need to use the washaway in one area: The top or bottom thread.
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