luvstoquilt301

Holice---My goal for a charity quilt is one of STURDY and will be able to stand up to lots of washing and using. I believe binding that is machine sewn front and back is just stronger. Quilts For Kids requires it that way because if it comes lose in some part----it can get caught up in the medical equipment.

I sew it on to the back carefully to get the good quarter inch. When I fold it to the front---I make sure it covers the stitching line. The Serpentine stitch I do on my Janome is pretty on the front.

Michellesews

Once you sew it to the back, you pull it around the the front. Very carefully stitch on the front just where the back stitching line shows. It helps if you folded the binding into thirds before beginning, sewed on one fold line and therefore when you fold it over to the front, it lines up nicely. You can also use a decorative stitch on the front if you choose to. I do this all the time. Michelle

ghquilter53

Pat Sloan does machine binding an has a tutorial on her blog. I only do machine binding now. NQA certified judges accept machine binding. I attach to back of quilt and blanket stitch on the front. I usually do not miter the corners.

Lori S

I use the stitch in the ditch foot in the last step of the binding . When I stitch from the right side to attach the binding on the underside... it keeps my stitches right against the binding. A stitch in the ditch foot has a blade ( not sharp) that runs in the center of the foot as a guide. I find it very useful for machine bindings as it helps to push the binding to the right a bit so I can get really close and consistant with my stitches. Some manufactures have a combination walking foot and stitch in the ditch foot.

BettyGee

I use a double wide bias quilt binding. Measure what I need plus 2 inches for each corner to make my miter corners. Press the entire length to be sure it is flat and even with no wrinkles to throw me off as I stitch it on. Then sew it to the front of the quilt using a 1/4 seam. Fold the binding over to the back and press the entire length to make sure it is even with no buckles. I prefer to hand stitch the other side for a nice clean line. When I do utilitarian projects like pot holders, trivets, etc. I use the same method but use the chicken tracks stitch to sew down the other side. So far, knock on wood, this has served me well.

CarolynMT

I use a edge joining foot, same set up, with the blade in the middle. Never heard of a stitch in the ditch, but I use babylock/brother feet, perhaps they call it the edge joining foot.

I start out cutting my binding 2.5ins, join on diagonal, and then press in half. (if I am doing a small piece or if the quilt is thin then I might cut it at 2.25ins)
I then trim my quilt top so that it is even all the way around, I dont want little 'bubbles' or uneven edges.

1. I attach binding to the back using a 1/4in foot with a guide. To ensure the back is 1/4in wide.

2. I then press the binding from the back out flat, this helps me with folding over if the binding is pressed good (with lots of steam) over the stitch line. I then just fold it over, put on the edge joining foot and set the needle position to just inside the binding area. It should be lined up to just past the back binding fold, so it will be stitched in the ditch on the back.

3. I stitch off the edge, fold excess up away from the quilt, finger press the diagonal line formed, then fold it down where it matches up with the edge of the quilt. I then start down that side till the next corner. When I press (like in #2 above) I make sure that I press the miter good on the back too. When I have it on the front and am getting close to the corner, I will trim off the excess fabric etc from the corner (basically clipping the corner off) I know this makes the corner a little flatter and not "filled" like it is required in shows, however it is easier for me and my friends/family dont mind or even notice for that matter. I then finger fold the corner and stitch and needle down turn when I am at the right location on the corner.

4. I generally use a straight stitch, my normal piecing number on my machine is 2.5 (not sure what that is in stitches per inch) but when I do the bindings, I use 3.5 or 4.0. I have used the serpentine stitch, but as I have gotten better with the bindings, I am using the straight stitch now.

For me, I have to move real slow to ensure that the bottom stitching is in the ditch in the back. If I hurry, sometimes I get off in either direction. It does take alot of practice and a ton of patience, If anyone is trying to perfect this skill, I recommend practicing with different widths of bindings. I know I cut a little smaller when I am trying for perfection. Other times, I just want it done and gone

applique

1.Cut the binding a tad over 2.5 then starch with lots of starch and press in half before I trim it to just a tad over 1 inch.
2. Trim out and stitch along the very the edge of the quilt before binding so there will be no problems. 3. Attach the binding with the walking foot using the edge of the walking foot for the guide.
4. Press the binding over the stitches and off the edge of the quilt before folding it over to the other side and glue down.
5. Stitch along the very edge of the binding with wash away thread so everything can be checked out front and back, adjustments made.
6. Then do the "real" stitching hopefully right on top of the stitches which attached the binding.
Wash to get out the glue and water soluble stitches stitches. I still do the miters with just a couple of hand stitched front to back in the middle to tack them down. I still do show quilts with a hand binding which takes forever with the ladder stitch and tiny little bites of fabric because it is still the preferred way for most judges.

Rodney

Holice,
Maybe I'm taking this wrong but it seems you are offended that people may take more time or make a bigger effort on show quilts than they would on charity quilts.
This is my take on the subject:
I have yet to start my first full size quilt and doubt I'll ever enter one in a show so I'm far from an expert. That said, in almost everything that people compete in, not just quilts, there are differences in standards that must be met in order to win those competitions. I'm going to use cars as an example. There are a lot of show cars out there that never leave the trailer except to be unloaded at the next show. The owners put a lot of time and effort into keeping the car absolutely spotless including the undercarriage in order to win those competions. The same sort of thing applies to quilts. Judges have to nitpick things to death sometimes in order to make a decision as to which quilt (or show car) wins. That includes things like whether or not the stitches were done by hand or machine and whether or not there's any dirt on the underside of the car.
It doesn't mean that the person making a quilt for charity cares more or less than the (sometimes the same) person making a quilt to compete at shows, it just means a different set of standards does apply. Show quilts are judged on things like technical skill and beauty, charity quilts are judged by repeated washings and sometimes some pretty hard use.
The point I'm trying to make is both quilts are equally valid but they are intended for different purposes and different rules do apply.
Rodney