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How to Piece Straight Seams in Columns and Rows

How to Piece Straight Seams in Columns and Rows

Old 08-22-2020, 01:26 PM
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Sashing and cornerstones help here.


You can mark the center of the block and each piece of sashing. Match the marks and sew together.
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Old 08-22-2020, 07:23 PM
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When I have a pieced block, I sash it like IceBlossom does. However, if I have fabric pieces within my blocks that I want to line up across and down, I put registration marks for the seams between the pieces in the seam allowance of the sashing so I can match up the seams across the rows and columns.
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Old 08-22-2020, 08:01 PM
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I, personally, am not a fan of sewing long rows or columns together. I feel like things can get stretched out that way. probably just bad technique on my end, but I prefer to sew in "neighborhoods". Instead of sewing a row of 7 blocks to the next row of 7 blocks, I would be inclined to sew pairs (one from row 1 and one from row 2), then sew pairs together (to make a kind of 4 patch), then sew two 4 patches together, etc.
Not sure if there is an actual advantage to it, I think I just like it because the time each is under the needle feels more manageable, instead pushing long rows through.
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:42 AM
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Just to summarize what others have said (and I use too)
1) add sashing around blocks in pieces (L shape)
2) add registration marks to the sashing to make it easier to line stuff up
3) group blocks into bigger section blocks (neighborhoods) like big 4 patches.
4) use AAAALLLLLLLL the pins to match intersections. Fabric stretches!
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Old 08-23-2020, 04:27 AM
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As I was sewing 2 rows together yesterday, I spotted an area that needed "easing" and thought of this question. So, I grabbed my phone and snapped a pic.
Attached Thumbnails pins2.jpg  

Last edited by aashley333; 08-23-2020 at 04:34 AM. Reason: add photo
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:51 AM
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Lots of good suggestions already. Don't forget to check the size of your units/ blocks as you build them. If the blocks are not the same size, problems will happen.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:06 AM
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The first thing I do is make sure all my blocks are squared up and the sashing pieces are exactly the size I want them. If I am using a 2 1/2" sashing I don't want any wings in the middle or curving out pieces. I then secure that first row with a few straight pins to the next row. The first row is always the most difficult. Then I keep building laying one row to the next. You will have more finished rows to to easily line up your quilt.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:13 AM
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Some things I've learned along the way -

1) Make sure that all the units that one intends to join are the intended size.

2) If I have to ease something in - I put tick marks on both pieces at the 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 intervals - depending on how long the intervals are and how much I need to ease in so that the extra is distributed evenly. Then I match the tick marks and pin. And if I am lucky and the fabrics are cooperative, I can steam/shrink the "extra" out after the seam is sewn.

3) Some fabrics refuse to be eased - batiks, for example. Generally speaking, the crosswise grain is "stretchier" than the lengthwise grain.
Attached Thumbnails intervals.jpg  
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:54 AM
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And another little hint--put the piece that needs a little easing on the bottom. Let your sewing machine feed dogs help.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:38 AM
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Stretch and Sew used to say "Sew the pieces together with a relaxed bottom" - back then - we would be doing something like stretching ribbing to fit a neck hole, or stretching elastic to fit a waistband.

Longer piece on the bottom next to the feed dogs - shorter piece on top next to the presser foot.
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