Husquavarna Sewing machines
07-01-2010, 07:46 AM
#91
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Peoria Illinois
Posts: 115
I eliminated the shredded thread by using nothing but the embroidery needle. It has a large eye and a groove for the thread to slide down the needle. Most (not all) of my thread problems vanished.
I fill a bobbin from large cones of thread, and as the thread goes onto the bobbin I move the thread up and down so the bobbin fills evenly.
I fill a bobbin from large cones of thread, and as the thread goes onto the bobbin I move the thread up and down so the bobbin fills evenly.
Originally Posted by Charleen DiSante
Thanks for reminding us about the favorites setting I forget about the new technology.
The tech guy I mentioned gave me some answers to several of our questions:
-said it didn't matter whether thread was horizontal or vertical.
-said the thread tends to pop out of the tension discs on SOME machines and that he is making his own tools to facilitate his repairs
I have the same problems with my bobbin winding but didn't think to ask him about it. Will do so next time, again, it could be I did't have it threaded correctly. I too, will get the book out.
One problem with the thread breaking (this might cover your shreading problem too) is that there might be burrs on the edge of the spool which catch the thread. I keep an emory board within arms reach.
The tech guy I mentioned gave me some answers to several of our questions:
-said it didn't matter whether thread was horizontal or vertical.
-said the thread tends to pop out of the tension discs on SOME machines and that he is making his own tools to facilitate his repairs
I have the same problems with my bobbin winding but didn't think to ask him about it. Will do so next time, again, it could be I did't have it threaded correctly. I too, will get the book out.
One problem with the thread breaking (this might cover your shreading problem too) is that there might be burrs on the edge of the spool which catch the thread. I keep an emory board within arms reach.
Originally Posted by janRN
I have 2 problems with my 830. When I wind the bobbins, they don't wind evenly. Seems most of the thread goes around the bottom half. If I put my finger under the thread and "aim" it upwards the top half fills. This happens if I do it when the machine is threaded or if I just use it to fill the bobbin. Any suggestions?
Second problem, and this could be "user error" is when FMQ my top thread doesn't break--it shreads. If the thread is three ply or two ply I'll be sewing along and the thread snaps. When I look at it there's a blob of thread where it enters the needle and the thread going into the fabric is only one very thin ply. Doesn't matter brand of thread, ply, or size of needle. I've tried most types. I do the whole clean, rethread, new needle, etc., and it keeps happening. No burr on needle. Bought a new pack of quilting needles but haven't had a chance to try them yet. Has anyone else had this happen?
Katie, the 830 has a memory setting: it's that little heart logo. You do have to program your favorite setting (it takes awhile) but then when you turn it on and go the favorites (heart button) it goes to what you've set.
I hope this all makes sense and Charleen, thanks for starting this thread--I've already gotten some help.
Also, when you're sewing, is it better to have the thread horizontal or vertical?
Second problem, and this could be "user error" is when FMQ my top thread doesn't break--it shreads. If the thread is three ply or two ply I'll be sewing along and the thread snaps. When I look at it there's a blob of thread where it enters the needle and the thread going into the fabric is only one very thin ply. Doesn't matter brand of thread, ply, or size of needle. I've tried most types. I do the whole clean, rethread, new needle, etc., and it keeps happening. No burr on needle. Bought a new pack of quilting needles but haven't had a chance to try them yet. Has anyone else had this happen?
Katie, the 830 has a memory setting: it's that little heart logo. You do have to program your favorite setting (it takes awhile) but then when you turn it on and go the favorites (heart button) it goes to what you've set.
I hope this all makes sense and Charleen, thanks for starting this thread--I've already gotten some help.
Also, when you're sewing, is it better to have the thread horizontal or vertical?
07-01-2010, 08:42 AM
#92
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5
I have owned 5 Husquavarna machines and I now have 2.
A Designer 1 embroidery machine and a Sapphire 870 quilting machine.
I wouldn't trade either of them for another brand, they are the most user friendly machines on the market.
BTW I also use mine for an Embroidery buisness.
I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.
A Designer 1 embroidery machine and a Sapphire 870 quilting machine.
I wouldn't trade either of them for another brand, they are the most user friendly machines on the market.
BTW I also use mine for an Embroidery buisness.
I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.
07-01-2010, 08:56 AM
#94
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: From WI then Denver then Houston and now Hainesville, IL
Posts: 314
[quote=janRN]I have 2 problems with my 830. When I wind the bobbins, they don't wind evenly. Seems most of the thread goes around the bottom half. If I put my finger under the thread and "aim" it upwards the top half fills.
Same here for me!!
The clerk from Husqvarna told me she had to do same thing and thought it was with all the Saphires...??
I love my 830, I have had it for three years now and just took in for a clean/50,000 mile check up! Was told it needed every year, but the cost for a checkup is WAYYYYY up there!! Was almost 100$!
Same here for me!!
The clerk from Husqvarna told me she had to do same thing and thought it was with all the Saphires...??
I love my 830, I have had it for three years now and just took in for a clean/50,000 mile check up! Was told it needed every year, but the cost for a checkup is WAYYYYY up there!! Was almost 100$!
07-01-2010, 10:03 AM
#95
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Phoenix,
Posts: 137
It isn't just the larger eye that helps, it the deeper groove on the front of the needle. That groove helps protect the thread as it goes through the fabric. If the thread is larger than the groove it rubs against the fabric and that can cause shredding.
Pati, in Phx
[quote=Charleen DiSante]Thanks janRN. It makes sense if the top stitich needles have a larger hole if that is what was making thread shred.
Pati, in Phx
[quote=Charleen DiSante]Thanks janRN. It makes sense if the top stitich needles have a larger hole if that is what was making thread shred.
07-01-2010, 11:13 AM
#96
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: western Pa
Posts: 4,569
Is there a difference between top stitching needles and quilting needles? Both have the larger eye but I can't see if the groove on the front is different. I tried both of these yesterday with the same $#$@ shreading result.
Thanks Pati.
Thanks Pati.
07-01-2010, 11:35 AM
#99
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Phoenix,
Posts: 137
Originally Posted by janRN
Is there a difference between top stitching needles and quilting needles? Both have the larger eye but I can't see if the groove on the front is different. I tried both of these yesterday with the same $#$@ shreading result.
Thanks Pati.
Thanks Pati.
http://www.superiorthreads.com/educa...e-right-needle
Yes this is from Superior threads but has a very concise explanation.
There are lots of sources of info about sewing machine needles, some with great photos and closeups of the various parts of the needles. Just do a search for "sewing machine needle information" or such.
Something else to think about..... When you use the needle threader on your machine you are pushing a metal wire through the eye of the needle. If that wire touches the metal of the needle it scratches. A very fine scratch but that can be enough to cause a burr that will help shred the thread as it goes in and out the eye of the needle dozens of times before actually being sewn into a stitch.
Lots of places and reasons for shredding thread.
First check your thread. Is it good quality? Not old/brittle? (Try a tug test, if you can break it easy by holding in both hands and tugging your hands apart the thread is probably not going to do well in the machine.) Hold the thread up to see if there are slubs and uneven spots. If so that could also be the culprit. A slub can catch on the eye of the needle and cause shredding.
"Wrapped" threads are much easier to shred because the wrap can fray and move up the core. Threads spun/plied with long, or better yet extra long, staple fibers are less likely to be slubby. And If tightly twisted are better than loosely twisted.
Lots of info on threads and more is available at the Superior Threads site, under the "Education" tab. Remember that Superior is a producer and seller of a line of threads and they do emphasize their own brand. But it is a very good quality thread too. <G>
Have fun,
Pati, in Phx
07-01-2010, 12:35 PM
#100
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,312
[quote=janRN]Sharon: I've used quilting needles and a top-stitching needle--same results, my thread shreds after sewing maybe 5-10 inches. Today I didn't put it in Free Motion mode but stitched circles (some small) and heart shapes with feed-dogs up and in regular quilt mode (C) and it sewed just fine. I was turning the quilt, pulling, straigtening it, etc. and the thread didn't do that. Now I'm really confused--you'd think it would do it all the time if something was stuck in the tension discs. Does what I wrote make sense? I just can't understand why it didn't happen when I made curvy sewing lines without FMQ mode.
I think the key symtom is that it happens every 5-10 inches. it sounds like the thread , prior to the tensions disks, is not being evenly fed . Use a table cone thread holder. This solved my problems . Additionally when free motion on many machines it helps to set the stitch lenght to 0. and reduce the tension to about 2.
I think the key symtom is that it happens every 5-10 inches. it sounds like the thread , prior to the tensions disks, is not being evenly fed . Use a table cone thread holder. This solved my problems . Additionally when free motion on many machines it helps to set the stitch lenght to 0. and reduce the tension to about 2.
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