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    Old 04-27-2012, 06:13 PM
      #21  
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    Bearisgray--absolutely right!! When it really matters, refer to the pattern and directions, but trust your instinct and don't blindly rely on the pattern. I always make a test block from cheap broadcloth. If the seams don't match, I start investigating.
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    Old 04-27-2012, 08:08 PM
      #22  
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    I use 50wt 2 ply thread or thinner for piecing. One thing is to be very sure there is no veering at the end of each seam. That will cock the edge of the block just enough to be wonky. One thing I did as a beginner was to machine baste the block, press and measure. If it was the correct size then I resewed it. If not exactly the right size, I found where I made the mistake. It takes practice but soon you will have the AhHa moment and you will be piecing like a pro.
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    Old 05-19-2012, 07:02 PM
      #23  
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    Originally Posted by BellaBoo
    I use 50wt 2 ply thread or thinner for piecing. One thing is to be very sure there is no veering at the end of each seam. That will cock the edge of the block just enough to be wonky. One thing I did as a beginner was to machine baste the block, press and measure. If it was the correct size then I resewed it. If not exactly the right size, I found where I made the mistake. It takes practice but soon you will have the AhHa moment and you will be piecing like a pro.
    How do you correct the veering? I think I tend to do that in some of my piecing!! Thanks for all suggestions and hints in advance!
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    Old 05-19-2012, 09:08 PM
      #24  
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    I use the 3 strip test as explained by cwessel47 using the same fabric and thread as in my project.
    If you use different fabric and/or thread you might have different results.
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    Old 05-19-2012, 09:17 PM
      #25  
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    If you are consistently off then I'd suggest that you find the true 1/4" on your machine. Can you change the needle position? I sometimes use that method. Or I use the 1/4" foot. Once you've done a few, you should get a feel for which ones will give you trouble and which ones should go smoothly. Just hang in there.
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    Old 05-19-2012, 09:25 PM
      #26  
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    i figure any quilt that requires a scant 1/4 is to be made by someone much more careful than i.

    and yes. if i can figure out how to change my signature, it will say this:

    "i am a master. if there is a way to screw it up, make it harder or turn it upside down i WILL find it."

    good thing i love it so damn much!

    aileen
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    Old 05-20-2012, 04:05 AM
      #27  
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    Originally Posted by EasyPeezy
    I use the 3 strip test as explained by cwessel47 using the same fabric and thread as in my project.
    If you use different fabric and/or thread you might have different results.
    I agree with EasyPeezy. Unfortunately you can figure out where that magic 1/4 is using the method mentioned, but that will work for the fabric and thread weight you used in the sample. Change your fabric and/or thread weights and you need to run another sample to figure out where the seam should be for that combo. If you make quilts with the same block for the entire quilt this will be much less of an issue, because your blocks should all be close to the same size. For a quilt with several different blocks, however, you need to know how to find the proper seam allowance so everything fits.
    Fighting with blocks to get them to fit takes all the fun out of it for me. I'd rather spend 5 minutes at the beginning of a project to figure out where the heck my seam should be and avoid the hassle later on.

    regarding the 'veering' issue. If you use a leader scrap of fabric and/or chain piece, I find it's easier to keep my stiches from veering off at the start. Unfortunately, when I chain piece I find I veer a bit at the end of the seam. I think I'm paying more attention grabbing the next pair of patches to sew then completing the ones I'm working on! I try and be a bit more patient, and i've also found that using a stiletto to guide the last stitches thru helps me.

    Last edited by PaperPrincess; 05-20-2012 at 04:11 AM.
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    Old 05-20-2012, 04:11 AM
      #28  
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    I had that problem for a while, turned out when I cut I didn't include the mark on the ruler. That is as clear as mud. When I lined up on the 2" line I would cut before the line instead of after. The width of that line can make a huge difference.
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