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I have a Janome and the CT thread has never been a problem with lint build up. I clean it after each bobbin change regardless of what thread I'm using.
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Thanks for the timely note. I had just noticed I am running out of some basic colors and was wondering which kind I should get.
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Originally Posted by BellaBoo
I have a Janome and the CT thread has never been a problem with lint build up. I clean it after each bobbin change regardless of what thread I'm using.
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JanW,
have you checked on the janome website? it's a forum and people post problems and others answer. you have to register, but you should do it. |
I have a Janome6500 and have used CT thread for over 2 yrs probably over 3 yrs, time flies. Have never had a problem with lint, and I always clean after each bobbin change, but I do use Superior threads Bottom Line in my bobbin, not CT. I like the thinner thread for the bobbin, maybe that is why I have never had a lint issue.
warm quilt hugs, sue in CA |
Barnbum...I was told the same as you when I purchased my machine, so also use Gutermann. Have heard alot of good though, about the Connecting Threads. Coats & Clarks definitely a NONO...I had a mess in my first machine from using it.
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I have been told that if you use poly thread on all cotton fabric it can weaken the fabric at the seam. Also heard that C & C Dual Duty now has some sort of coating that is bad for computerized machines.
Betty |
I found out for myself that even a so-called GOOD brand of thread can have a lot of lint. I've posted pictures of the quilt I'm machine quilting with Anita Goodesign software - 80 5" x 5" block + sashing. I've used 2 different threads I already had in my 'collection.' It's A LOT of machine quilting. And a lot of thread.
First, I used Sulky 30 wt Blendables Long-Staple Cotton, because I liked the color variation. I had to stop & clean the fuzz out FREQUENTLY. I can just imagine how much is in places I can't reach. I'm taking my machine to be cleaned as soon as I finish this project - if it doesn't stop working before I finish! It wasn't the bobbin thread, because that is a polyester, and I've been using it with the other threads I'm going to tell you about. When I ran out of the Blendables thread, I switched to Signature Trilobal Polyester, a similar variegated to the other one - absolutely no trouble with fuzz. When I ran out of it, the only variegated thread JoAnn's had in the color I want was a Coats Polyester. I went to JoAnn's, because it's only 10 minutes away. I haven't used enough yet to see how much fuzz is building up. I'll notice the first time I change bobbins, and if it's a lot, I'll drive a little farther (30 minutes each way) to my favorite LQS and ask Donna (my semi-local Pfaff dealer) to recommend a thread. I really trust her. She answers questions on the phone - even when I think I'm asking a stupid question. She's SOOO patient, and she 'walks' me through things. I'd rather spend more $ on thread than have lint gum up my machine where I can't reach to clean it. I have to drive 30 minutes each way to have Donna's husband clean it! But I have to leave it for a few days. Ouch! Thanks for the tips everyone, Eddie especially for starting this discussion. |
how do you use those on a regular machine? I'm sure there is a way but my spool is held horizontal and not vertical I don't know how that would work.
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Originally Posted by JCL in FL
how do you use those on a regular machine? I'm sure there is a way but my spool is held horizontal and not vertical I don't know how that would work.
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Originally Posted by JoanneS
I found out for myself that even a so-called GOOD brand of thread can have a lot of lint. I've posted pictures of the quilt I'm machine quilting with Anita Goodesign software - 80 5" x 5" block + sashing. I've used 2 different threads I already had in my 'collection.' It's A LOT of machine quilting. And a lot of thread.
First, I used Sulky 30 wt Blendables Long-Staple Cotton, because I liked the color variation. I had to stop & clean the fuzz out FREQUENTLY. I can just imagine how much is in places I can't reach. I'm taking my machine to be cleaned as soon as I finish this project - if it doesn't stop working before I finish! |
You would need a spool stand to use larger cones of thread.
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You can sit the cone in a quart or pint jar. That works just fine. Don't waste your money on the lightweight plastic thread holders. They aren't sturdy enough.
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I used the CT thread and got too much lint. I will NOT use C&C, way too linty and cheap. It will ultimately cost more in damage to my machines.
So, I use Superior, Aurafil and Mettler excusively. I'm a thread snob I suppose. |
It seems most of the thread I use is Guttermann. I've never had any problems with lint buildup. For my latest quilt, I went through 10+ bobbins of thread with little or no buildup at all. I did brush out the bobbin area after each bobbin change, but found nothing. This was with Gutterman variagated in the bobbin and invisible thread on top.
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Hi everyone, I worked in a quilt shop long ago and as part of learning about quilting, this is what I learned. We were told that the less expensive types of thread were basically made up of material that was like getting the dryer lint and rolling it all together
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Oops, here ya go.
"Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a seesaw action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with todays fabrics for fine stitches. Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½ to 2½ long while European threads use 5½ to 6½ lengths. Ply number of strands twisted together to make a single thread. Roll the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll. Twist the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams." |
"Right twist most American
threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives average stitch quality. Left twist Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches. Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics. Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen. Fiber refers to the type of material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads: Polyester 2 ply such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Polyester 3 ply cordonnet topstitching or buttonhole twist such as Mettler 30/3. Cotton 2 ply such as Mettler 60/2 excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning. Cotton 2 ply such as Mettler 30/2 loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes. Cotton 3 ply such as Mettler 50/3 excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester. Rayon a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only. Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread Isacord and Polysheen embroidery thread excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant. Thread Storage Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree" |
Wow, a lesson we all needed. I've copied this for my quilting room, for future reference.
Thank you very much. |
I too am a fan of connecting threads...heard about it on a forum....very little lint....
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Originally Posted by dimplesinjuly
Oops, here ya go.
"Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a seesaw action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with todays fabrics for fine stitches. Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½ to 2½ long while European threads use 5½ to 6½ lengths. Ply number of strands twisted together to make a single thread. Roll the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll. Twist the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams." I have to say that I have learned a lot from the ladies on this forum so far and I have only been a member since August 21. Thanks for all the info. Joey |
Thank you all for your input! I have been meaning to start up the same conversation, but hadn't found the time.
I was so irked every time I opened a quilting magazine and saw a C&C advertisement, because I have seen the local store inventories change from cotton covered polyester (more than 50% cotton) to 100% polyester, and had read that one should use cotton thread on cotton fabric. I didn't understand why they would change to 100% polyester, and continue to advertise in quilting magazines. Then I finally found that the stores carry some of the C&C 100% cotton thread, but not nearly as many colors. I simply cannot afford to buy the expensive threads in the range of colors I would need for piecing, so I continue to use C&C because of the availability/convenience. Some of you ladies run your machines thousands of hours per year more than I, and I appreciate you sharing your experiences with those super nice machines and their idiosincracies (sp?). I have also read somewhere that fabric quality is better nowadays, and it isn't so likely to be "cut into" by polyester thread. If we could step into the future and see how today's quilts hold up with the various threads, that would be something! Thanks again for the sharing! ps. I am slowly acquiring CT threads, too...love those prices! |
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have also copied it.
I'll never use Sulky Dimensions again, because of my personal experience with its fuzz. Now I know what to look for in othr threads. |
Your very welcome, I know it helped me alot.
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