Ball Point Needles & FMQ
 

Was just at my local machine dealer getting some advice on my FMQ and he suggested I try a ball point needle. Has anyone tried these when doing FMQ? I sew and FMQ on a Juki Exceed F600.

Another question re FMQ: While practicing today, I noticed my stitches on the back all seem to have a little space between them ... while my stitches on the front don't. Is that normal? My stitch lengths were fairly consistent.

Thank you!
Sharon

I can't quite envision what you mean. Can you post a picture of an example of it? It may be as simple as increasing your top tension a little, but hard to say without seeing the problem.

as far as ballpoint needles, I think they would only be necessary on a knit fabric, like a t-shirt quilt, otherwise you would want to stick to a Sharp needle.

I am not sure you would be happy with a ball point needle. BUT, trying things outside 'rules" is how new techniques are born! I once just about had a knockdown drag out fight with a man at the commercial sewing machine store. I wanted top stitch needles for FMQ and he kept trying to sell me their quilting needle. He had no idea that the torque on a frame based machine had to have a stiffer needle shaft. For FMQ on a domestic machine, I suggest the Schmetz machine quilting needle.

I agree with the others. A ballpoint needle is going to make a wider hole in the fabric & is more likely to damage the fibers unless you're working with knits. I use either a Schmetz Microtex or Klase/Schmetz Quilting needle for my FMQ. I've yet to see a quilt I just loved done with a ballpoint needle (at least the ones where I asked), but as Beth says -- the only way to know what works best for you is to buy a couple different types of needles and try them out.

I have always used sharps and buy my needles from this same guy. Today he said he had recently talked to a lady that said she only used ball points. I doubted him but said I would try them ... probably on a practice piece though.

So the picture with the Red thread is the "top" of a practice piece ... the one with the White thread is the "back". (Used different colors to check tension). Looking at the fabric again, I don't see spaces on the back but the area where the needle went in, the "indention" looks deeper than on the top. Never really noticed this before. I just think my top stitches look odd. Maybe it's just me. LOL

I think a ball point would be great for the Tee shirt quilts, but I think I may have to try one too on the regular cotton ones.

Sharps pierce the fabric, that is why you get a straighter seam. When piecing with a ball it doesn't pierce the fabric but goes to the side of the weave that is why it seems to not be as accurate.
I've never quilted with a ball.

I agree with everyone else, ball needles are made for knits so that the needle doesn't break the weave of the knit. Never heard of this but try it out on a small test sandwich.

A great source of information about needles and threads can be found st Superior threads and the owner Bob Purcell. Top stitch or quilting needles are the best to use for FMQ Ballpoint needles are for knit fabric and are intended to push the yarns in knit fabrics aside rather than penetrating them which happens with woven fabrics regardless of fiber content. It is also important to use the size needle recommended for the size thread you are using.

About your top stitches: I do not think it is just you! They look like they are not lining up straight with each other. Instead, that are slightly angled, kind of on a slight diagonal, rather than straight as a ruler. I remember a friend of mine had this problem when she bought a new machine. At the moment I cannot remember what caused this (tension, timing?) but I could ask her if need be. Of course, you could ask your local guy about it, showing him your sample and maybe he will know. Maybe someone will come along with advice on how to correct it who knows way more than I. But I do get why you are questioning the look of those top stitches.