thanks for the SS tutorial. Where can I get the glue bottle tip.

I ordered them from her website (can't remember the exact address but just google it and look for "glue tips") but they haven't arrived as yet. For my last project, I just turned the bottle tip which came on the Elmer's glue down to a fine line for dispersing the glue and it worked. I just had to be careful not to get too much. Best of luck, and let us know how it turns out!

I use a combination of both methods, and it works great for me. The only thing I do different is the width of the binding is about 2 inches. I like a narrow binding.
Sue

You want to make sure when you line up the binding to start stitching that the fold you have done is perfect. I leave just a tiny bit of the fold over the top edge of the quilt. I am talking about less than 1/16 of an inch. If your fold is a bit off, it will show. Also another trick is when you bring the binding to the back, make sure you fold it the opposite of what it on the front. You don't want the bulk on both sides to go in the same direction. HOPE the picture helps. It appears that the folds are going in the same direction but they are actually opposite because one is the front and one is the back. This binding was the most difficult I have ever done. It was a cut strip of 1.75" the attached as double fold.

You stop whatever distance is your seam allowance. Why do all the instructions say 1/4inch. No you don't start 1/4 inch from the end on the next side. I lower the needle just into the folds to start the next side . This holds the binding in place so I can alight it straight before beginning to sew.

I saved the 3rd one because I always had trouble with the ending. Haa, not any more! This is great.
Check out the other two.
http://www.mccallsquilting.com/mccal...ining_the_Ends

The 1/4" measurement will only work if your seams that you are using to stitch your binding on are are 1/4". For sewing on binding I like using the width of my presser foot for my walking foot which is more like 3/8" so I stop 3/8" and start 3/8". Since I almost always have a border on my quilts I don't have to worry about the wider seam allowance cutting off points of a pattern etc. The wider seam allowance also gives more dimension to the binding and the layers go all the way to the edge of the binding when it's turned to the back. You can use a note card, old envelope, any paper with a little weight to it to measure your seam allowance, mark the paper and then use that to mark your stop and start points. The stop point is actually more important than the start point as you can actually start stitching at the top and it will work.

Craftsy has a new video class on binding which is really good and goes through the basics thoroughly. It was on sale for 9.99 yesterday, so I bought it and am finding it very useful.

I watched Jenny Doan from MSQC's tutorial on binding and my corners were all mitered beautifully. Although I admit I did watch it a couple times before trying it.

Make sure to stop the SEAM WIDTH of the binding from the edge. That 1/4 inch only works when your seam width is 1/4 inch.