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I agree with Dunster. If you are not happy with it, then do what you have to do to make it right. Others will not notice small errors, but we always see them in our own work. "If Momma ain't happy, ain't Nobody happy"
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Thanks everyone! I love the support, tips and links that I got from this post :) This particular table runner had 6 corners to be mitered - I picked out the thread on 3 of them and redid those. Now they are much better - not perfect but I think I can live with them
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That youtube tute is wonderful. Thank you, PaperPrincess.......:) I've saved it.....
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Meyert, can you post a pic of the binding problem? I use a modified F &P method to join the ends that is fail proof---I leave about 10-12" tails at each end (actually the L hand one when it's laying on a table with the edge at the top needs to be about 15" or so--I save all the tails for string quilts). Then I fold back each tail and leave a 1/4" gap between the 2 folded edges(not with a bias binding! I use about a 3/8" gap with them). I press the folded ends and then open back and put the right sides together on the bias, matching the press lines and pinning like crazy! This is just like putting 2 stripes together on the bias to make a long strip---but you will have to scrunch the quilt up to get it pinned. Sew it together and pull it to check to make sure you did not get a twist in it. If no twist, trim and sew the rest of the binding to quilt.
I sometimes get "bad"miter at a corner--any tips there?? |
Originally Posted by quiltingshorttimer
(Post 7349250)
I sometimes get "bad"miter at a corner--any tips there??
When you get near a corner, stop sewing as far back as your seam allowance. If the seam allowance is 3/8 inch, stop 3/8 on an inch from the corner of the quilt top. Sew into the corner on a 45º angle. Leave your needle in the fabric at the end of that sew, just so the needle is in something. (If you've left a little bit of back and batting all around your quilt, you will have something to leave the needle in.) Turn quilt to sew down the next side. Lay the binding down the next raw edge. There will be a large "bump" forming in the binding as you turn that corner. Pinch it. Lay that pinched piece down so that the fold is at the top and the two folded binding edges are exactly together. Scrinch the fold up a little so that it for sure is up to the raw edge of the binding. Now lift the needle and move over to the seam line. Start sewing down that side. No need to cut the thread. I've been doing this for a few years now, and like it so much better than taking it out of the machine, cutting threads and starting over with loose threads. |
Meyert, can you post a pic of the binding problem? I use a modified F &P method to join the ends that is fail proof---I leave about 10-12" tails at each end (actually the L hand one when it's laying on a table with the edge at the top needs to be about 15" or so--I save all the tails for string quilts). Then I fold back each tail and leave a 1/4" gap between the 2 folded edges(not with a bias binding! I use about a 3/8" gap with them). I press the folded ends and then open back and put the right sides together on the bias, matching the press lines and pinning like crazy! This is just like putting 2 stripes together on the bias to make a long strip---but you will have to scrunch the quilt up to get it pinned. Sew it together and pull it to check to make sure you did not get a twist in it. If no twist, trim and sew the rest of the binding to quilt. I sometimes get "bad"miter at a corner--any tips there?? |
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