Measure all around outside of top, add 10inches, divide by 40
(if cutting crosswise grain)...this give you the number of strips you need. Using 40 in as fab width gives you a little cushion, cause your fab is probably 44 or 45 in. wide., also the added 10 inches will cover your miters at the corners. Of course you should round up from the number you get from this calc. If it is 3.7....cut 4 strips. I almost always have extra, and save these strips for a log cabin in my future.

sue

To avoid the seam bulk, put non-bias strips together with 45 degree instead of straight seam (lay two strip ends face together with one end on right and the other end on top, sew the 45 degree from top left corner to bottom right corner, open & check to ensure will lay smooth, then trim to 1/8" seam allowance). You only need bias binding on a quilt with a curved outside edge. I use 3" strips and fold in half lengthwise with the raw edge next to the quilt front raw edge so it's enclosed in binding.
Always start in the middle of a side and always leave about 10" tail at start so can make 45 degree angle to put two ends together when finish.
To miter corners, stop 1/4" from next edge,backstitch & cut thread; wrap binding around corner of next edge to sort of measure a vertical line on binding, grasp that vertical line and bring up to horizontal edge at corner you are mitering (you now have a fold of fabric brought up to top edge of quilt)pin. Now put the prepared corner back under the pressure foot ready to sew down the next edge and 1/4" from top and right side. Take a couple of stitches, backstitch and keep sewing binding until you reach next corner.
When back to last side, stop about 10" from beginning. You need to have room to fiddle with the two pieces of fabric so you can get that 45degree seam and have the piece fit the quilt. I find if I pin the bindings together to mimick the 45 degree seam, I can check before I sew to ensure I didn't do it backwards. Takes a few minutes, but in the end it is all invisable and no extra bulk.
Flip it over and hand sew the back down with an invisible stitch while you watch tv.
Whew! hope this was clear and wasn't too much info, but since you said you were new to this, thought more was better.

Thank you all so very much for all your help. This is great to have someplace to ask a question without feeling like a jerk.

Send it to me and I will do it for you. The only part I have a problem with is mitering the attachment at the end you know after you sew it on the quilt and you get to the end to attach the two ends together. Sometimes I get confused with it. The hand sewing doesn't bother me at all. We all have our strengths and weaknesses. Mine weakness is cutting all the pieces, ugh!!!!!

Well Thank you very much. If I cant find this walking foot, I might take you up on your offer.

Have you checked out the Missouri Star Quilt Company and their tutorial on their binding tool? I ordered one for me and one for my buddy. It makes binding the quilt so easy!!

You are welcome, anytime.

Lockeb, I feel the same way I enjoy the handwork. I finished a restoration recently that dated 1830's the binding needed to be replaced. It was about a 1/4"wide on both sides. It was all hand sewn of course. That was a challenge to keep it as close to the original binding as I could.

wow I think that is great that you know so much about the older quilts and how to restore them. You must be a wonderful quilter.

You're not wierd. I love it, too.