![]() |
Originally Posted by juliea9967
(Post 7858832)
I am trying to figure out how you attach your binding to your quilt if you don't iron it in half. Can someone help me? If it does save some time I am interested. Thanks
|
I love my bias binding. Seeing straight cut bindings worn bare along the grain line convinced me that bias bindings do last longer.
|
Bias only. Straight binding is just too contrary, and has formed a twist every time I have tried it. I used my leftover bindings to create scrappy crochet bath rugs.
|
Originally Posted by juliea9967
(Post 7858832)
I am trying to figure out how you attach your binding to your quilt if you don't iron it in half. Can someone help me? If it does save some time I am interested. Thanks
I fold it in half - and then pin the edges together so that the fabric is laying smooth - no warps or bulges or wrinkles on either side of the fold - and then I machine baste the edges together - about 1/8 inch from the edge with a long, slightly zig-zag stitch. I do not remove this stitching. One can, but I don't. It probably does not save any time in the short run - but it is a lot easier for me to control the binding when there is only one "edge" of it to keep track of - and my bindings are excellent (if I do say so myself!) |
Cut my bindings 2 1/4" on the true bias..... do iron it in half but really like the idea of basting raw edges together.....would work well for me because I love handwork anyway.
|
Generally, I cut my binding straight, lengthwise of grain, unless there are curves or scallops (and I stay away from them if I can - lol!). If I have curved/rounded corners, I do true bias. I cut the binding 2-1/2", double-fold and stitch to the front, and turn the folded edge to the back, hand-stitch. The reasons I cut binding lengthwise of the grain are: It's far easier to cut it straight, and lengthwise of the grain doesn't stretch, and there's fewer pieces to stitch together (bias seam). I use the method demonstrated by Jenny Doan, MSQC, in her video(except that I cut my binding lengthwise of the grain), and find that my bindings are (almost) perfect.
|
Like many of you I prefer bias for large quilts using the straight method only for small quilts that will not be getting hard use. If I take my time pressing and adding to the quilt, I have no trouble with stretching. Next question: Do you always join the binding pieces on the bias? It certainly makes a smother finished look. If this falls close to a corner, I will cut a small piece out and add to the other end of necessary. Sometimes I lightly pin the binding on to make sure the joints are not at the corners. I also like to use a small stripe on many of my quilts. A red and white (cream) binding adds much to small Christmas table toppers, etc. When using stripes, I like to match perfectly the stripes when sewing the pieces together. Probably doesn't make much difference, but that way no one can see where the joints are.
|
I'm a bias binding person. The only time I don't use bias is if I am running short on fabric to make the binding.
|
I cut bias 2 1/4" if it is for a scalloped or curved corner quilt, otherwise mostly 2 1/2" WOF, unless I have enough for lengthwise. I sew the edges on the bias for one long strip and iron in half. I then apply it to the back of the quilt at about 3/8", fold over to the front and machine stitch next to the folded edge with a straight stitch, adjusting my sewing machine needle to the right and using my blind hem foot with the guide down the middle. I use the point of my seam ripper to hold the fold over to the guide while I am sewing. I do this with all but my show quilts as most of my quilts are given away and I expect to be used or drug on the floor by a child.
|
Almost always 2-1/2" bias unless I have the perfect already-cut jelly roll strip. I like a graphically strong binding like stripes or polka dots.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:35 PM. |