Bought the Shakespear in the Park Pattern but I want to size the blocks down, have ??
 

So, I bought 3 of Judy Martin's books this past week because I really like the look of a lot of her quilts. Her patterns seem a little difficult to work through (I find that it leaves the quilter with much more thinking and strategizing to put together then other patterns I have used) I am finding. But, I think the extra work will be worth the effort if my quilts can turn out anything like the examples I've seen.

So, I want to do the Shakespear in the Park pattern but find that it is written to result in blocks that are 12 inches finished. I like to do lap size but want more repeats in blocks than the 12 inches will allow and I prefer a more delicate size. So, I'm thinking reducing them to 8 inches finished would look good for a more detailed look and lap size. I have been trying to find the two block patterns on line in a 8 inch size and am having difficulty. I can't find directions for an 8 inch Virginia Reel and I can't figure out what search name to use for the Star Block (it is a star inside a star) to look for that 8 inch pattern. Can anyone help me find or determine this information? I would really appreciate it. I'm wondering if I am making this too difficult?

It's easier to reduce a block by half. For instance if you take a 12 inch block and reduce it to a 6", then you multiply all the original finished measurements by 6/12 or 1/2 (.50). So all the 2 inch squares will reduce to 1, the 4 inch squares will reduce to 2" etc. In other words, the finished size of all the patches will be 50% of the original. If you take a 12 inch block and reduce it to 8", then you will have to multiply all the patches by 8/12, or 0.6666. So a 1 inch patch would need to be reduced to .6666, a 2 inch patch would be 1.332 etc. I'm not that good at cutting! If you really want to do this, you may need to paper piece.
When you reduce a patch, you remove the seam allowance, calculate the new size, then add the seam allowance back in.
So if they tell you to cut a 2.5" square and you want the finished block to be half the size of the original, you subtract the seam allowance (0.5") to get 2", then take half that measurement or 1", add the seam allowance back on and you cut a 1.5" square. The original patch finishes at 2" the revised will finish at 1"

Thanks PaperPrincess, reducing in half would be the easiest. Unfortunately, that would make the large blocks 6 inches and so the small star that is inside the star would be 3 inches which I think would be much too small to make flying geese for. I figure 8 inches is probably the smallest really workable size. Unfortunately, it makes the math for the blocks a real head scratcher. Thanks.

Draw the size you want or reduce on a photocopier and then paper piece. The smaller sides would be easy. You will have to work out the numbering.

Nine inches finished would used a multiplier of .75 and probably generate easier measurements to cut. As PaperPrincess said, remove the .5 seam allowance, multiply the measurement by .75 and add back in the .5

irishrose--Your post gave me a good chuckle. I thought 8 inches was .75 of the full size. My math isn't so good right now (and I'm an accountant--don't tell anyone). I think the book/pattern just overwhelmed me and wasn't as step by step as I'l like. Thanks.

That pattern is totally on my list of quilts to make. I love it, and I agree it's overwhelming to even figure out how to get started. I see all the nice scrappy ones and they are gorgeous.

Have you seen this gallery:

http://www.judymartin.com/Viewer-Photos.cfm

Scroll down about half way to the book title (from the Creative Pattern Book) and you can see lots of pics. So cool!

You could resize them down to 9". That is much easier since it is a 25% reduction. Trying to get them down to 8" would be .33333333333........ I assume you don't have Electric Quilt. That is when things get so easy when you want to shrink or enlarge a quilt pattern. I just chose a dozen blocks from Marsha McCloskey's BLOCK PARTY. The blocks in her book were 9" and I put them into EQ and did 6" block. If you have a scanner, try to reduce something by 25% and see if that works. PM me if you need more help.

I know this doesnt answer the original question but wanted to say my avatar is SITP

Snipforfun--that is really gorgeous. Is there somewhere I can see it in a bigger view (I did a search on here for SIP quilts last week and I don't remember yours coming)? It looks like you did a really neat placement of the colors. I've seen several different arrangements of colors and it seems this will be the hardest decision.

Angelina, you could leave off the 4 outer triangles of the Snail's Trail block, making it finish at 8-1/2" (9" from raw edge to raw edge). Then you could make single sawtooth stars (instead of the star-within-a-star Rising Stars). Make these to finish at 8-1/2". That would make the squares CUT 2-5/8" and 4-3/4" and the triangles CUT as follows: 3" half-square triangle and 5-1/2" quarter-square triangle. If you use some other method to make flying geese, the finished sizes are 4-1/4" on the long side of the big triangle and 2-1/8" on the short side of the small triangle.
I sized the blocks so that the Snail's Trail blocks could be rotary cut with nice numbers and straight grain on the outside edge after adding the triangles to the block. If you reduce the patch sizes, you will get into sixteenths of inches or worse. Good luck with your quilt!
Judy Martin, author of The Creative Pattern Book.
P.S. I am sorry you do not like my style of instructions. I do not use shortcuts, myself, so I do not go into detail describing them. It is really very simple to just cut the patches in the sizes indicated and sew them together as shown in the diagrams.

I have the book with SITP too and it is soooo high on my list of 'want to makes' :-))It's beautiful.

Judy, I am honored that you have posted here for me. I really, really like the pattern as it is so I would hate to lose the star-within-a star blocks. I hadn't done enough of the math in reducing the blocks to realize that you had found the only "sweet spot" for the block sizes so that the cutting is using friendly numbers. As I said, I like the look of a more delicate block but I also really like the pattern here as it is and wouldn't want to change the look of the blocks.

Regarding you patterns, I think what you have done in your books is probably the most sensible approach as it gives you the room to cover the most patterns in an economical space. I think purchasers get more than their money's worth from your books!!

Because of my work background (an auditor under constant heavy time and budget pressure) I find myself always looking for the most efficient method that will give really good results so I do like to strip piece when possible and making 2 flying geese at a time (not sure the method but it gives you 2 geese after sewing small blocks to the top opposite corners of a larger block). I guess this is what you are refering to as short-cuts. I am sorry I was negative about your patterns without fully explaining my thinking.

On another note, I am really excited to make your Summer Lake Log Cabin quilt and can't get the colors and fabrics you used for yours in your book (page 56) out of my head. The colors look a bit like a batik line a year or two ago that was maybe called Watermelon but your selection is much richer. Just this past year I made my first log cabin and used pink and greens from Maywoods Wildrose collection. It turned out really nice. Thank you again.

It was my pleasure to try to help. I understand that many quilters do not use my method, so I was not offended by your comments.

Like you, a like a quilt with lots of repeats, which is why I make so many large quilts.

Have fun with your Summer Lake Log Cabin!

Judy