Cutting fabric for Log Cabin block
 

Is there a right or wrong way to cut the logs? Do you cut on the cross grain
or length of the grain.'Thanks.

When I did it, I cut them crosswise. My log cabin blocks didn't turn out well though because I wasn't careful to cut the logs on the straight of grain, which was just plain dumb. Just a word of caution!

I always cut on the crossgrain on the width of fabric.

I enjoy making log cabin blocks with strips a la the fast Eleanor Burns way, and these I cut the usual way (width of fabric). I never have a problem with these blocks; they come out fine for me. I make pretty straight-forward log cabin quilts, though.

Some quilters, such as Judy Martin (who has published a couple of books of fabulous-but-complex log cabin quilts), strive for complete accuracy. They cut strips length of fabric (parallel to selvedge) and then cut the logs to exact measurements before starting to sew. The lengthwise fabric grain is more stable than the crosswise fabric grain, so you get less stretching when sewing along the lengthwise grain. I tried this method exactly once, and discovered I do not have the patience to cut all those strips to size. Ended up going back to the fast method.

It's really a matter of personal choice. Since I have been happy with the accuracy I get from crosswise cuts, that is all I do. For a complex log cabin quilt, I might cut on the lengthwise grain but I would still never cut all the logs to size before sewing; I just don't have the patience for that!

I've always done it the way Prism does.

I do it the Judy Martin way when I can - starch fabric, cut along length of fabric, cut logs to correct length. If I'm working from scraps, I don't always cut along the length of fabric and don't always starch, but I ALWAYS cut the logs to the correct length before sewing them. I find this is faster in the long run because I don't have to stop and trim every log after it is sewn. (Think about it - you will have to cut it to the correct length at some point, so why not at the beginning?) If your logs are cut at the correct length you will not wind up with wonky blocks, which is the big advantage of doing it that way.

I agree with dunster. That's what gets the best results for me. And once you've cut everything, you just sit and sew and sew and sew....

I always try to cut log cabin patches and practically every other rectangle for that matter on the lengthwise grain--less stretch than you get with cross grain strips and lots of stability.

I so much prefer lengthwise strips, I blogged about this in May of 2013.

If I think about cutting the logs, it is true that they need to be cut one way or the other (before you sew, or after you sew). However, I find that the *sewing* goes much faster using strips. Others may well be more adept, but I find that I lose a lot of time picking up two log pieces and matching them exactly before sewing. I enjoy picking up just one piece and adding it to the strip already lined up on my sewing machine.

Also, for me it is much more enjoyable to cut apart finished sewn pieces than to cut raw fabric. The one time I tried the Judy Martin way, I made several cutting mistakes on the logs and had to re-cut some stacks down. When cutting after the pieces are already sewn to a strip, I don't make that kind of mistake.

As I said, though, I have not made a really complex log cabin quilt; I've always stuck to the plain vanilla versions. I do think pre-cutting has more value when making a Judy Martin type of log cabin quilt that has a *lot* of narrow pieces of different sizes. I simply have not found it necessary for the type of log cabin quilt I make; the degree of accuracy I get is fine for them. Plus, I get more pleasure out of the Eleanor Burns method. Other quilters may get more pleasure out of the Judy Martin method. It probably depends a lot on personality and what an individual quilter is looking to get out of the process.

The only thing I would deeply caution against is cutting log cabin pieces on the bias!!!

I too cut my logs the way dunster does-to size to begin with. Gives me nice precise blocks start to finish, lengthwise if cutting from yardage, if using scraps I cut whichever way I need to for the size log✳

I also cut the strips to size. I tried the other way first and became very frustrated with the way some of the fabrics seemed to stretch. Ii hate having to resize the blocks again and again and again. With the strips, I get a much more precise block.

I made a flannel scrap log cabin. The directions were to cut all the fabric into 2 inch strips and place them in a paper bag. Next draw out strips randomly and start sewing onto a 3 inch square, cut, put used strip into a different bag, rotate, sew another strip, cut, rotate, etc. It was a fun quilt to make and went fast. I thought it was really pretty and easy. That is the only log cabin I have made so far.

I don't cut my strips to specific lengths - I trim as I go. With 7 cats it would become quite a battle to keep the strips in the correct order. Also that is the type of project that I pick up and put down so I don't have to worry about putting it away in a certain order.

I cut width of fabric and then sub cut to size of length of logs needed. I like to have a little give when sewing the pieces.

I always cut WOF. I just follow the pattern or any pattern for scrappy regular log cabins. I have made several quilts that do log cabins differently.

I try to use the length wise grain, but with scrappy log cabins that is not always possible. Having tried both ways of cutting to length prior to sewing and using strips... I much prefer cutting to length prior to sewing. It keeps in incheck for how acqurate I am sewing the seams. It did not seem to save much time sewing the strip method as I had to cut them once sewn.

I do starch all my fabrics quite heavily prior to any cutting.

This is how I build log cabin blocks, though I had no idea the method has been 'credited' to Judy Martin. I've been doing it this way since the early-70's, years before Martin published her first book. Since accuracy and precision are very high on my prority list, this way just makes sense for me.

I always cut WOF and never seem to have a problem. Good luck.

Question:
I have never used starch on the pieces but would like to start, since using a lot of batik fabrics I like the crisp feel when handling pcs to sew. Question is...is it ever a problem for stretching when you iron them?

I use the Go Log Cabin die. The strips are all cut the exact length. I lay the fabric on the die lengthwise unless I'm using scraps. I don't have the patience to check each scrap for what wise it is.

Judy Martin - Queen of the Log Cabin Quilt Patterns (IMHO)...says to always cut the logs with the lengthwise grain, and not WOF - due to greater stability with the lengthwise cuts..........You can google and watch some of her YouTube videos - she really is amazing....

For the only log cabin I've made, I did as Dunster and others have -- cut my pieces to size at the start. Frankly, it never occurred to me -- until now, reading these posts -- that it's sometimes done another way. Mine turned out okay, I think....though it's still not quilted. (Dang those unquilted tops; they just seem to multiply!)

It amuses me, at times, to now realize how little I knew when I began this hobby. It helped, I think, that I didn't know how much I didn't know!

I just cut strips. I hope to live long enough to do a complex Judy Martin log cabin quilt, though.

I have seen pros and cons for cutting the strips to size - and I did a block the two different ways (1 block each) - I found that while the free cutting (let's call it) made me feel good and produced a nice block - - the pre-cutting the lengths helped me to stay "square" - - prevented me from getting just that smidgen off that you don't notice until it has exaggerated itself over a couple of rows. In spite of the fact I am a new enough quilter to get queasy about cutting too many blocks or strips ahead of time - - I found my best block in the experiment to keep me on track was to cut the strips to size in advance.

Anyway, I will probably still go ahead and do it as the mood hits me. :-)

Marysewfun

Me too....

Would love for you to share a photo of this quilt top. I'm not a great fan of pink, but love purple and really curious how tis blends in with the pinks.

They do multiply like rabbits don't they. lol I try not to have too many because I fear they might get in the same box and multiply more quickly than I can handle.

me too-I found the strip method not as accurate and harder to cut than just cutting the logs to size 1st.

Do those of you who cut the logs to length AFTER piecing also cut your sashings/borders to length after adding them to the block/quilt sides? Same principle isn't it?

To get the crossgrain straight, wash the fabrics first, then take them out of the dryer while still damp and iron them right away. I have a fairly long ironing board so I can lay the fabric the full width, I use my hand to straighten it out, then I do an up-and-down motion with the iron so that the selvage line is also straight.
You're probably saying 'Huh?' to this explanation.

No. I cut my sashings and borders to size first. If a portion of a block were the same size as a quilt top, it would be the same principle.

That is the way I've been doing it, and it seems to be working just fine. It's my first attempt at a log cabin and only my second time making a quilt. Thanks for all of the input. Glad to have suppport.
I only have the one ruler the longer one, do you think I should get the small and larger square one?

This is how I make mine too. The blocks move fast and easy and are very even. I have not ever had a failure.

Hey Gigigreen, this is an older thread and might not get the level of response you might want to get. I'm a believer in tools and the right tool for the job.

My recommendations is that everyone start with a 6.5 x 24" ruler, I don't like 6" rulers, want 6.5" so you can make 6" squares! That's your standard, it fits across the folded width of fabric, you can do amazing things with just this one ruler. Recently I've started using an older ruler with a textured bottom as my go-to, but I've used standard rulers for decades. Your ruler should have in addition to the inches and sub-units some of the common angles marked, at least one 45 degree marked, probably a 60 or others too.

I have a roll of 1/4" masking tape that is sold with the quilters supplies. I use it often to mark/reinforce lines on my rulers to help with my vision issues, really helps me be consistent!

After that, yes -- you will also want a smaller ruler. I suggest the second ruler be a large square, either 10.5 or 12.5" inches. If your log cabin blocks are going to finish to a standard ruler size, it might be a good excuse to get that one. And then you will want more smaller ones, either skinny and longer, or rectangles, or more squares. There are also acrylic cutting templates. I decided for my Fan quilt that I wanted that consistency of a nice hard fan blade and was happy to pay for that (most likely) one time use.

I have a long torso and short arms and I used to be heavier than I am now. I find I do my best cutting standing up and do all of my "long cuts" across the fabric standing. For me, dining room table height works, for my taller friends I suggest kitchen counter height. Sitting down I didn't have the reach and back then the tummy would push the ruler... I can do my smaller subcuts sitting but I've adapted to largely working standing anyway as a way to get a bit more activity out of my quilting. So stand when I pin, as well as cut.

That's a whole different topic but I've gone from being completely sedentary to getting my steps in each day without leaving my house by moving my various quilting stations throughout the house. Helps that it's just me and the hubby, and he works a lot and is very tolerant anyway. But I do my layout on our bed, sewing room is the small bedroom next to that, but the ironing board is set up in the living room and the cutting station is the dining room table.

I cut width of fabric, selvedge to selvedge.

Since I like and use paper-piecing to make my log cabins, I have found that it doesn't matter, LOF or WOF works. But I don't pre-cut, tried that once and had a mess. One of my cats decided to "help" sort the strips for me.

HouseDragon, please post a pix of your "Pink" log cabin quilt when finished. I also have a Granddaughter who loves pink. She turns Sweet Sixteen today.

Cutting log cabin
 

I cut my log cabin strips with an Accuquilt cutter. I cut on the length grain and never had any problems. If you cut on the cross grain making a wall hanging you will get some stretch. Pays to do it right the first time.

I found this topic interesting as I recently bought the Eleanor Burns Log Cabin book and plan to do a log cabin quilt as soon as I find fabric.