Here is another 'two bits' worth. I have used this method several times and have applied it to several sizes of projects. I do not thin the glue with water because it takes longer for the quilt to dry as the water soaks into the quilt or backing and into the batting. I usually use clamps on my 30" X 72" table and work from the center of the quilt out in sections. I work with the backing and batting first because it is cut several inches larger than the top. I clamp the backing down and roll up the batting while I apply the glue. I have done the grid method but usually do the figure "A" method. I use a rubber spatula from the kitchen to spread the glue out and smooth the backing (or quilt top) down with my hands, working from the center out to the edges. If it is a small project such as place mats or a runner I will carry it to the ironing board and iron it dry but if it is a large quilt I let it dry overnight. I try not to let the glue get old because it is harder to control. I did have a big problem one time when I used a packages king sized batting. When I unfolded it there were areas that had stretched when it was packaged. It was a bit of a headache to manage. But I used thread basting in those areas when putting the batting and backing together. By handling it this way the stretching was managed. There were no problems using glue when putting the top together with the backing/batting combination. I took the basting stitches out as I quilted with no difficulties.

Thanks for those pics Jan, I have also wondered which method was best. I have wondered if putting the glue in a small dish & using a paint brush to "paint" the glue on in strokes would work. I think I will give that a try also.

I have used Elmer's washable glue stick for matching open seams, etc. with success. Then I tried basting a quilt top the other day...it went well, and I am now an Elmer's glue convert, :). For this particular project, I used very thin drizzles in large zig zags across one section of the backing. Then I rolled up the batting and centered it across the top. After that, I gently unrolled the batting, gently patting it down as I went down the backing. I repeated the process until the whole backing was covered. I did not baste between the top and the backing because of the nature of the project and it still came out fine. Thus far, I have not diluted the glue. Next time I will keep a light touch on the amount of glue and see what happens. I agree with Tashana about leaving the space for the binding. Once that glue dries, it is sure like trying to poke a needle through metal;). The quilting was done by the SITD method. For my next machine quilting project, I will pin the backing to the leader and then baste the batting and the top to the backing across the top edge only and let it dry before I start quilting.

Image A. Put batting down, glue half, or even a forth, and work my way down. Let it dry and then do the other side. I double tape my batting to the floor to keep it from shifting. Works great and I'll never pin again. :-)

here is my tutorial on this method hope that it helps :)

http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...e-t208057.html

I use very small amounts based on size of the pieces. Generally one dot at intersections and then one dot on each end. I haven't used it to sandwich the quilt together yet, but plan to try it.

YES, YES, YES, AND YES! Except for C does not need to be spread. Just made very thin lines.

I spread my quilt on my queen bed sideways, letting it hang over the two sides. I have the centers of back, batt, and top marked with pins across the middle. Smooth them out on the bed. Pin centers so all layers match. Then I roll up the top, put glue on the batt, (from the middle to about 1/4 way down the quilt), smooth down the top, and use the iron to just press in a lot of spots. As long as most of it is dry, you can start working on the other end the same way. Then pull the center to the edge of the bed and work on the 1/4 end that was hanging over. When that is partially dry, pull it all over the other way, and work on the last quarter. Now turn the whole thing over, and work on the back in the same way. Those middle pins can stay in until you are done.

Now for the binding: I sew it onto the front with the mitered corners, press that seam open very carefully, (you want to see the ditch into which you will be stitching). Then turn quilt over and glue down the binding so that it extends about 1/8 in over the seam line. Glue the corners, too, just like you want them to look. A little more glue here will hold them in place. Then after it has been all ironed dry (as you go), turn it over and stitch in the ditch from the front.
Doesn't take long at all. No pins to not hit, no pins to take out, no pins to pick you at every turn!
I've done several queen quilts like this, and love it. Soooo fast and fun. After washing, the binding seam relaxes, and you can't see any stitching, (well, most of the time.)

I use method "D" above. I apply the unthinned glue right out from the bottle and spread it around a little with my finger to break up any large globs. I apply to the batting only, one side at a time.

RavenLunaStitch, thank you. Think I might try to get brave and give it a try. :thumbup:

Great info here.

Just more little thing I didn't notice in the other replies, (I didn't read them all, just skimmed) I do stop and if there is a blob, I smooth it a little with my finger. I don't know if it really makes a difference or if I am just compulsive?? :D

Thank you so much for the information and even more for the encouragement!

I started with using lines in a cross-hatch manner, but now I do the dotting (picture B.) Someone once posted, "Not a lot, just a dot." I tried that and liked it. I dot the batting and then smooth the top over it and press with an iron to set. Then I turn it over and do the same thing with the backing and batting. Has worked very well for me.

here is a great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE
it is a good elmers glue binding tutorial

It's plain old Elmer's white school glue, not a spray. It does not have to be in an even layer. Just squeeze thin lines straight out of the bottle. Wiggly lines, big swoopy lines, straight lines, dots, cross hatches, etc, etc. It doesn't matter.

The only thing is don't get too close to the edge if you're going to hand stitch the binding because it's hard to sew thru.

It seriously is not hard.

Thank you Jan for starting this thread. It is giving me the knowledge and courage to try this method. And thank you to everyone who contributed their experiences to it also. You all rock!

For quilts I use the A format and I've been able to use my hands (gently, just a bit, because the fabric is sort of "wet" with the glue) to spread it a bit and make sure there are no wrinkles. When I have it all where I want it I do iron, which drys the glue. I can do a quarter of a large quilt very quickly and also have the ability to replace should a problem show up. After ironing the first side I do the top (I always do the bottom first). Should a mistake show up (as it did a couple of times when I first started using glue) I wet the spot, which disolves the glue. If it is in the middle I have the option of pinning that area or part of my quilting "line".

I use a very thin line of glue so spreading it isn't really an option, but it has also never been an issue. It beats pinning and/or expensive cans of lethal gases.

For small complicated appliques I have used glue sticks. I'd never use them on batting!

How would the glue method effect fabric that has not been prewashed. Should I be afraid that it would run. I do charity quilts and know that some of the fabric that is used has not been pre washed. In this case I would imagine that the less glue used would be better.

Where do you buy Elmers spray glue?

I'm gonna have to try this and if it works for me, what will I do with all those cans of spray baste I bought on sale a while back? Thats what I get for trying to be frugal!

I tried the glue method for the first time adding my borders to a QAYG quilt, I thought it worked great and am looking forward to trying it on a big quilt. Am glad you asked this question, as I have been reading all these posts about elmers and wanted to know more. Thanks.

When you press, can you press over polyester batting or just cotton? I am afraid of smashing the polyester flat.

Some good info. to be had here. I have the items I need to glue baste, but I only ever planned to do small areas; I never, ever thought to do an entire quilt. Except for when stabilizing machine embroidery, I am anti-spray, so I've been pin-basting my quilts for many years. This washable glue method is an alternative I might try, so am tickled to be able to refer to this thread. Thank you, Jan, for the question and to those of you who gave detailed responses.

FYI- Another good discussion on Elmer's for basting (and binding, and piecing, and...and...and...)

What I've gleaned from both of these discussions (the abridged version):

Specifics: Elmer's = SCHOOL glue (other thread) or WASHABLE school glue, or Elmer's glue sticks. NEVER Elmer's Spray Adhesive.

What you can do with it: Anything you want (piecing, binding, basting)

How you can apply it: Any way you want. Just don't make globs. Use special tips, paintbrushes, or kitchen tools...or don't.

How to thin it: 3:1 (Glue:Water), or don't.

Have I got all this right?

You got most of it right except that diluting the glue was more like 1 part glue, 3 parts water
but this is up to you. This formula seems to work for me. It just happened to have a little
glue in my bottle and diluted it and it worked just as well. Win-win.
Remember, there are no rules. :D

You could try using Roxanne's basting glue - a great way to hold applique in place, just tiny dots in well-placed spots on the applique, but do not put it too close to the edge to avoid the needle and thread go through it.

Thanks, EP, for the correction on that. I am SO going to try gluing on my Blooming 9!

To stay on topic, I'll probably use a combination of methods noted here in the thread, since there are many seams to line up:

• dots on the seams
• thin lines on the straight sections
• very thin line I'll use on the binding
• I don't have anymore spray baste at the moment, so perfect time to test out on the sammich! I like the looks of A & D, so I'll probably have something that looks more like shorthand than morse code or stalag(mites/tites...turn your head sideways and take your pick :D )

Thanks again for the thread, Jan!

I'm quilting right now a lap quilt that I basted with Elmer's! It's working out great but I went way over board with the amount of glue that I used. It was my first time and I wanted to make sure I didn't miss any spots so I swirled, lined and dotted with the glue. That baby is stuck together and no matter how much I toss it around, it isn't moving anywhere.
I taped my backing to the floor like you would pin basting then I laid out my batting on top, pulled back the batting half way and glued, glued, glued. I smoothed it down and then did the same to the top fabric. I pressed it a bit with an iron and let it dry over night.
Next time I will do the grid and trust in the fact that you don't need to cover every inch. Just put the glue where you would a pin. I have hard blobby spots that my machine doesn't appreciate sewing through but thats my fault and could have been avoided. As long as all the glue washes out ill be happy and probably won't baste any other way. Good luck!

I am paying very close attention to this thread. Thanks for starting it, Jan. I think someone mentioned in an earlier thread on gluing that they used a wet paint brush to spread it, and that seems to make sense based on other gluing experiences I've had (non-quilting).

All I need now is a square ironing table that's about 3 yards on each side! Wouldn't that make this much easier?!

Twinkie, I had just read that post this afternoon and was wondering how to share it. I think it's a very good explanation and although I'm super new at this, I'm making a wall hanging for each of my two grandkids' birthdays and plan to give this a try. I also read a tute on hanging a quilt to spray baste it. Sounds pretty cool, as well. MY DH is going to help me set up a design wall that I can also use for this purpose if I want.

I drizzle it (directly from the bottle) sparingly on the BATTING as in picture A. Then I put either the quilt top or back on the batting and smoooooth it out with my hands (n larger projects, I do this in sections). Because I am impatient, I use a hot, DRY iron to further smooth out the back or quilt top and quickly dry the glue. Once one side of the quilt is completely glued and dry, I flip it over and repeat the process on the other side. I usually use a few safety pins around the edges of the quilt to be sure the layers don't separate during quilting--but I suspect that is just me being over-cautious. Hope this helps.

RavenLunaStitch---thank you! I've never tried the Elmer's glue basting method, but you've given me the courage to try it.

Thank you Jan for your question and presentation of your question--your teaching techniques shining thru. You prompted replies with suggestions that will be very helpful to me.

Have been using spray for basting. Hate the 'Original Spray Basting' in the pink can (if you have to reposition the sticky glue gets all over my nails). Love the 505 Basting Spray. But now that I know to thin the glue and use a paint brush I'll save money. Thanks for all of the info! :thumbup:

Thank you for the information, I can't wait to try this method!

The important thing to know about spray basting is that you cannot spray it near your machine. "Near" means in the same room as your machine. The spray vapor will penetrate any openings on your sewing machine. That's the nature of vapor.

I use spray, like it, and my machine has not gummed up at all in the last 3 years. But I spray outside on a nice day with no/low wind. I did get gumming once when I used an iron on adhesive, though, so stopped using that immediately.

DH just cleaned my HQ16 after 2.5 years of use - probably about 20 quilts, most lap size, most spray basted. The interior of the machine was almost immaculate and showed no sign of gumming up from spray basting. The needle area was clean, the bobbin area had a little dust, but again, no sign of gumming in either area.

I'm so glad my detailed post seems to be helping! I will add that I do dilute the glue to make it "squirtable" from it's own bottle without a special tip but no more than 50/50, usually less (more glue than water). The reason I want to restate this is because I've noticed that some folks do not dilute the glue at all and use dots. This also works but with my impatient wild slinging of glue everywhere I would probably have a hard time quilting through full strength glue dots because they can get very hard. I do have "blobs" but I can quilt through them without problems, probably because my glue is diluted at least a little bit.

I'm working on a quilt right now that is pieced on both front and back. I did not want either side to even THINK about moving on me when I started quilting it. I have a small DSM with a 6.5" throat and hate wrestling with the quilting part. So I was already going to use fusible batting (Foo-si-boo cotton/bamboo that I got on clearance) and thought, hmmm...adding a little Elmer's on top of the fusible would really keep it clamped together.

Yes, I really did use glue AND fusible batting and am quilting it now. Not a flinch. No puckers, no movement whatsoever and it's staying together even through all the wrestling around with my small machine. I did put a heavier-duty needle in first which I don't know if it is making any difference or not but I'm having no problems. I am running over some blobs but again, it feels like going over a thick seam and nothing more. I was really concerned about the piecing of both sides and getting it quilted but so far it's working great! I'm doing straight line criss-cross quilting because SITD would look good on one side and stupid on the other so I did something that would work on both sides.

It will still take some time to get this one done, but...I'm also doing another experiment with this particular quilt that I will report on when I get this out of the dryer after washing it and have the final results. I'll start a new thread when I have the answer to that one so stay tuned! I like to push the envelope and I'm glad that you all can benefit from my experimentation!

Haven't read all the posts but I glue like example A then do it again in the opposite direction. I did have to thin my glue a little so it would flow easier. Love it.

Thinking some more on this topic...

If you (general "you") might get more puckers with pins than spray...and gluing using DOTS and not SMEARED is much like pins...

Would it be accurate to suppose that (with glue) one could get more puckers with DOTS or even lines and NOT smeared?

I like the idea of a wet paintbrush, btw.

I've seen the posts using the paintbrush and a thinned glue, but I do not like any more work than absolutely necessary. I use the glue, full strength, right from the bottle with the tip wide open. I use two hands and squeeze and moving the bottle back and forth to form a grid of thin lines (at least that is the plan, not always neat and straight) of glue onto the batting. No brush, no diluting, less cleanup if any and the fabrics in my sandwiches DO NOT MOVE. I did a 96x96 sandwich this morning and have already stitched the diagonal lines edge to edge as well as the outside edge staystitching. Now it is ready for my to draw in my pattern for fmq. I am always looking for ways to cut down on work, and this method is the best I've found.

I mainly make charity quilts and I use Layout A. I open the glue bottle tip a little less than fully open, plus I hold the bottle about 12 to 18 inches above the batting and move fairly quickly from side to side. These two things keep the glue from being applied too heavily.

No offense to those who want to paint the glue on, but that just sounds like too much trouble.

One thing for sure, I'll never go back to using pins.

Tate