I have used coats and clark since I learned to sew in home ec, never had a problem with the clothes falling apart or my quilt seams opening up. I have used expensive threads and have had issues with some so if my machine doesn’t have a problem with it I use it! Actually I was very sad that a thread I bought from Superior did something I had never seen before it is a three ply and separated as it went through my machine? I had to unpick all the stitches I had quilted and then changed thread. So personally I don’t think price necessarily means better.

Never change the style or type of bobbin for your machine. A size 15 and size L are not the same and most can't tell the difference but your machine will. Some machine will have problems if the bobbin has the holes instead of solid rims. Pre wounds come is size 15 or L for domestic machines. Every new machine is tested and set for a certain needles and thread and bobbin. The dealer sells the type of threads, bobbins, and needles used to set the quality control for the brand of machine that is being sold. Use other types if you want to, it's your machine but don't criticize the dealer for only having what is recommenced for best results from the machines.

I have noticed on my longarm machine that it likes 40 weight, 50 weight on the top and 50 to 60 weight in the bobbin. use what the machine will tolerate. Test, test and test again. Needles are very important also.

I have enjoyed the all the comments to "Don't shoot me" :). I was so busy learning to quilt that I couldn't focus on the thread aspect until now. I'm still exploring which one is better for what. I have a variety of thread I'm experimenting with for both the longer and piecing.

From the view point of a sewing machine mechanic, we can't get a balanced stitch with Coats & Clark. But that doesn't really mean anything to anybody else. If you're balancing the tensions with a zig-zag stitch, you can't get the "tick" on the back even.

You'll notice that Coats & Clark doesn't make a cotton wrapped poly anymore. It's 100% cotton or 100% polyester.

I have two wedding quilts from 1984 that the polyester thread cut through at the seams. So, from that experience, I only use cotton thread for piecing.

However, I use polyester thread for machine quilting. It behaves so much better than cotton thread.

I have quilts that I used C&C threads on 30 years ago. They are fine. The reason I use better quality thread now is that it has less fuzz and is better for the sewing machines. It also gives fewer problems with quilting. For my bobbin I always use Sew Fine. It is a wonderful thread that seems to just sink into the back of the quilt. I've never ever had one problem with it. (Of course, now it will probably break every other line since I bragged on it. LOL )

Your quilt, your rules. The Quilt Police do not exist.

Way back when - as well as I can remember - Coats & Clark thread seemed to be the most readily available where and when I was growing up.

Coats and Cark does make thread that is Egyptain long stable cotton but you have to look for it. Usually in a quilt shop if they sell Coats and Clark. Walmart does not sell it because it is too pricey for their market. Read the label. Dual Duty xp is better quality then the older Dual Duty if you like that line.

When sewing I buy the best I can afford in fabric, thread, machines and tools. For piecing: Presencia 60wt 100% cotton thread ordered from Red Rock Threads online (finer thread = less bulk in seams). For Quilting: Glide Thread with their prewound Magna Glide Delights in Bobbins or Superior Threads “So Fine” and prewound bobbins. If I need to I will wind my own bobbins for FMQ but for LA I prefer prewound.