Dresden Plate Block with round edges
 

I made 12 plates with round edges and now I want them on the background fabric. I know that I read somewhere, (maybe Eleanor Burns), how to sew something on it and then turn it inside out. I'm not crazy about anything that would add extra weight and I tried the hand sewing. Trying to turn those round edges didn't look good. I've been trying to read everything I can on the Internet but mostly the plates have pointed edges. Can anyone give me suggestions as I'm trying to finish my UFOs. Thanks.

I have the same situation. I birthed the plates with a lightweight fabric. it adds a smidge of weight, but I think it's the easiest solution.

You could put your background fabric on the Dresdens with right sides facing, then machine sew around your circle. Pull them apart in the middle and cut the excess fabric from the center leaving a seam allowance. Then flip it right side out. Just be careful not to cut through your Dresdens. Should give you a perfect circle.

I generally just machine applique the Dresden plate down. You could use a fancy stitch or even just straight stitch as close to the edge as you can get.

Thank you for this suggestion, I think this is what I saw years ago. I know I could sew it with invisible thread around the edges, but I really didn't want to do that this time. Thanks everyone.

One can buy super light weight Pellon interfacing - either fusible or not fusible - to face the units.

I suggest this method: http://www.sewmuchlikemom.com/2013/0...ards-path.html

i find it much easier than using interfacing, you won't have the extra weight, and your circles will be perfect so long as you cut your freezer paper right.

Used dryer sheets work well, and are very light. Once you have turned and pressed, you can cut most of it away.

If your plate is solid circle, the flip and sew method would work, but if your plate has scalloped wedges, might be tricky. I read somewhere - a while back - from heat resistant Mylar, draw your template scallop and down about an inch that you used for fabric, then measure in 1/4" for the "finished" edge-- that's the line you cut this template out at. Hopefully when you joined the wedges, you stopped 1/4" from that scallop edge.....anyway...put this onto back side of each wedge, iron over, move to next.....then you can blanklet stitch, invisible thread stitch, or straight stitch onto background....it takes a bit of time, but whose in a hurry!

iPad would not let me edit this reply....so have to do it this way. Should be .........but who's in a hurry!

I think I know just what would work for you. Nancy Zeiman did a Quilt Extravaganza last year with BOMs. I very much liked the August block and copied it for my library. I just went to her site but was unable to bring up anything on the search.

Eleanor Burns also did something similar some time ago, but she uses a fusible interface and covers a bit more of the section whereas Nancy Z only has a small strip on the top which she then inverts.

I use Sewer Paper from Home Depot.. sew it on the back and turn it..easy to appliqué on your square and edges are perfect. Don't iron with a HOT iron or you will melt the paper...medium heat works fine. I love it!

I have used the mylar before and works great, but I don't always have it when I need it. Now when I make an applique pattern, I print out the piece needed making sure it printed at the same size. Cut around shape leaving extra outside of line. Glue to a piece of cardboard from coke, cereal, cracker, etc box. Cut out shape on the line. Put shape on back of fabric. In your case, the fabric is already cut to shape with turn allowance. Position cardboard shape, you can use a light dab of glue stick to hold. Spray starch in a water bottle cap, qtip starch on turn allowance, and iron turn-edge over cardboard. Hold iron for a couple seconds to dry and set. Don't scorch fabric. Let it cool and remove cardboard. Your edge will be set and smooth (if you cut the curve without any jagged parts. Cut slowly and with blades closest to handle.) Sorry for long instructions. You can see in picture what I have done. [ATTACH=CONFIG]575537[/ATTACH]
I don't have good luck with freezer paper, as the layers won't stay together, no matter how hot the iron is, and the edges bend, lap over, and distort after I use them a few times.

Maybe this recent facing tutorial might help you with just making a facing for it, rather than a full backing? Or you could do the full backing and then trim it down to an inch or so?
https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...e-t289217.html

Yes, and very inexpensive...found in plumbing section...sewer, like in drain for water, not needle & thread!

That's what I was going to suggest, too.
Also try pinking the edge so there's no bunching of the curve when you turn it under. Remember clipping those v's out of curves when we used to do garment construction? It takes the bulk out of the curve.

I don't get this. If you do this as I think these directions say, your background fabric will be inside the two layers. These directions work well if you want to add a very thin backing to the circle in order to get a smooth line to the outside of the circle. Plate and backing are placed right sides together and sewn all around the outside. Seam allowances would be carefully trimmed and clipped. The thin backing is cut enough to get the plate birthed, to right sides out. Then that circle would be appliqued to the background in the method of your choosing. Good luck.

After cutting my Dresden plates from the templates, usually 3-4 layers at a time. I draw a curve I'm happy with on the wrong side of the fabric with quilter's marking pencil (or whichever device you choose) then do the "v" snips only to your drawn curve line. You can use the smallest dab of glue or starch to hold down and press. Stitch your blades together then applique onto your backing fabric.

you stitch a band of fusible interfacing to the rounded edge (like a facing). When you flip it to the backside, it gives you a nice edge. When you fuse it down, it holds it nicely for you to applique stitch it. You can attach the fusible to the whole dresden or just an inch around the edge. The added weight is very little. You can use a very lightweight fusible. Just watch carefully that you are applying it correctly so that when you turn it, the fusible will be on the outside ready to iron to the background.

I agree with Raggiemom, that's called raw edge applique. Best if you use a product like "steam-a-seam 2" and press it on first. If you are fortunate enough to have a special applique stitch on your machine use that. If not you also can use a blanket stitch or zig-zag stitch, but you will want to adjust your stitch so that it is just small enough to reach both background fabric and applique. Hope that helps.

This is what I do also, MSQC has a you tube video, I'm trying to remember the
The name.. Maybe x's and 0's, no it's the orange peel quilt!
I like the idea of using dryer sheets!

I have used a water soluble product like Solve sewed around then cut a slit and turned so now all your curves are tucked under ( you can also use pinking shears to trim out ) making very nice smooth curved edges that you can then applique to your back ground by hand or machine. When washed the solve dissolves leaving no extra weight to your quilt. Hope that this helps you out.

When I appliqued a Dresden Plate before onto my background fabric, it was easy as it had a pointed edge and I knew I was keeping that particular quilt (Vintage fabric plates bought on Ebay). This time it is reproduction fabric, only 12 plates, and I think it will be given away. I bought 2 small kits at a quilt store and although they are lovely, I want to do this very simple and easy. All the ideas here are good, now to get going.

I think I understand what you are saying. Would this work also if my Dresden blades have the point on them? Would there be a need to top-stitch by hand or machine after I turned it? When I trim the fabric off then I just finish as usual, right? Is there a u-tube or tutorial about this? Now I have something to think about when I'm going to sleep tonight. Thank you!