Free Motion Quilting Issues
 

I'm experiencing skipped stitches and thread shredding and breaking at the needle. I adjusted tension after straight stitching with a walking foot, changed the needle from an 80/12 to a 90/14, and changed the thread. It helped but I still have some problems. I'm using a Brother 1500S with an extension table and I'm using a Supreme Slider. My machine is not set into my table. I'm not an advanced quilter and this is the first time I've free-motioned a quilt this size (47x54"). I can draw and write script on a baby-sized quilt and I've thread painted something small. But I'm trying to advance my skills. Any suggestions?

It could be the "drag" of your quilt ..... the larger mass of quilt compared to what you have done before is hanging off the extension table and creating weight, and preventing you from getting the slide you want/need and are used to when doing your other FMQ work.

To check if that is the issue, my suggestion .... make a practice sandwich and see if you can FMQ without the problems you are experiencing on your current and bigger project.

Good Luck!

Thank you QuiltE! Yes, I can, mostly. I did need to change the thread to completely eliminate the breakage. Here's the problem: I can't learn to quilt on a bigger quilt without actually quilting a bigger quilt. The seams on the quilt also create an issue for me. The machine chokes a bit and it throws my line off and sometimes breaks the thread. The learning curve on this is tough. On ward and upward!

Well, that was fast!! Good for you Mitch for getting right at it! :)

Yes, FMQing is a long slow learning curve, and sometimes you feel as though it is two steps forward and three back, but with persistence you will figure it out! I have a notebook at my machine and I keep notes with each project, so I can emulate it later .... kind of thread, needle size and type, setting adjustments, batting used, etc. At a time like this, then you can go back to what worked. Or can see if there is something different.

The seam issue could be partly the drag issue. Also might be the needle you are using. There are a lot of different types of needles, and some find one type works better than the other.

As for the drag problem .... some build up the area around it, to give a larger table than the extension gives. Another thing to check, when you are FMQing, is the quilt on top of your table that the machine is on? Or hanging off the edge, towards the floor? If so, that can create a whole lot more drag, than if it is all scrunched up on top of the table, and you only have that 4" or so, of drag from the rise from that surface to the extension table.

Keep smiling Mitch! .... and cheer yourself along, that you know you can do it, if you keep at it!

If your quilting foot has a height adjustment, look at that, too.

Too low and it drags on the quilt.

Too high and it lets the needle deflect too much as you move the quilt and can cause the skipped stitches and shredded thread and broken needles.

Play with speed, too. Too slow of a stitching gives you too much time to move the quilt and pull on the thread. It takes a bit to get "in tune" with what speed the needle moves to what speed you move the quilt and to find the sweet spot that works best for your quilting "rhythm".

You might check out Leah Day's post Why Am I Skipping Stitches When Free Motion Quilting:

​​​​​​https://freemotionproject.com/2009/0...-stitches.html

Thank you! Your enthusiasm is encouraging. I only have a 3” drop as I keep the quilt scrunched on a big table. Tomorrow I will try putting heavy boxes around the extension table and hope for more ease of movement. :D

Thanks very much! I will ASAP!

FMQ does take a lot of practice, I would suggest looking up other members "suspension" system on here and that might help you.

Oh good point on the suspension system (which can be built pretty cheaply using PVC pipe, cord, and clamps)!

The drag over the edge of the machine/extension table, since the machine isn't recessed into a table, can definitely pull a larger quilt and cause it to fight you. Those suspension systems really seem to help with this.

I recently had a similar problem. I tried everything I could think of. The last thing I tried worked. Is that like the last place you look for something is where you find it? LOL What I did was simply change the thread position from coming off the side of the spool to coming off the end of the spool. Well I’ve heard that makes a difference but had never experienced such a dramatic one!

There are a couple of things mentioned in this thread that I would like to expand upon.

Regarding thread and needle size: What kind/size thread are you using? You mentioned that you switched from a size 12 to a size 14 needle. I found that when I used a 40 wt thread (King Tut, which is fairly thick), I needed to go up to a size 16 topstitch needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye and "scarf" or groove in the side of the needle; this protects the thread from a lot of friction as the needle moves in and out of the quilt sandwich. A 16 will also help with any skipping issues because it's thicker and less bendy. (I know you didn't say anything about skipped stitches, I'm just throwing that in for future reference.)

Regarding thread position: Watch carefully to see how the thread comes off the spool or cone - is it sideways? Does the thread twist off the spool straight up? Or does the spool spin? Sometimes the way the thread comes off the spool makes it very susceptible to twisting and knotting, then fraying or breaking as it moves through the mechanisms of the machine.

Ahhh, one thing I didn't try! Thank you!

When I FMQ I use a size 16 needle, take pressure off presser foot, turn stitch dial to zero. I always wear garden gloves with rubber nubs. I run the machine fast and move my hands slow.

Practice a lot works.

Are you using a hopping foot? You shouldn't be having trouble over seams with a hopping foot. As for thread breaking and shredding, I find that newbies tend to try to FMQ way too fast...try slowing down. Keep at it, you'll get there ! I don't think any one of us started out trouble free..bu you will get it with practice.

I was taught that the position of the spool depends on how the thread is wound on it. As described in this article:
https://madetosew.com/cross-wound-ve...tacked-thread/

Thread?
 

Thank you to everyone who responded. You are all generous with your time and expertise. I don't understand the reference to a suspension system. I have been using 50 weight poly and a 14 needle. In the past, I have used 40 weight and 50 weight cottons as well. Can you tell me a little about the kinds of threads you might recommend? Thanks!

Here's one out of PVC (I showed it to my husband once and he called it "rage in a cage" https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images...es/biggrin.png)

Watson uses dog grooming arms as a very affordable solution

Here's another thread on PVC suspension systems

There are a few places that sell pre-kitted designs, like Jenoops. They are usually "kinda pricey" because of the cost to ship long PVC bits.

The Brother 1500s can be a bit tricky when doing fmq. I find with mine I have to go much slower and be sure my quilting foot is on the machine securely. It likes to drag if you go to fast. Even though it can max at 1500 stitches per minute I wouldn't go but a fraction of that speed when doing fmq.

Mitch ... I see that MKC has already given you some links.
How did you make out with the boxes around your machine and extension table? Some have done similar using the rigid styrofoam insulation pieces, cut to size, covering them with a plastic tablecloth or clear plastic/vinyl that you buy by the yard.

Another possibility, if by chance you have an extension table that when pulled out, has somewhat of a shelf ... some have opened the table and set their machine on it. Then custom cut the filler board for the table to allow for the machine to set into it. Not sure if that makes sense? Or have taken a desk altering to allow a machine to set into it, and the desk surface to be your full table surface instead of your extension table.

Silicone spray on whatever surface you end up with, will help make things more slippery for your quilt to move a little easier as you work. Caution though .... overspray onto a hard floor surface can make it slip-sidey for humans, and the four legged ones who think they are human!!!

I am not sure if you are dropping the feed dogs if not you might want to try that or if you are dropping them you might want to try it with them up. I was always doing all the right steps and dropping the feed dogs but it was not working. Then another quilter told me to leave the feed dogs up and off I went. My machine is a Janome.

Thank you for so many helpful suggestions. I will try everything I can that will work in my teeny tiny NY apartment. I haven't been able to sit in front of my project again for a few days and won't sew again until next week. But when I do, I will refer back to this thread.

If you have time to talk about your favorite brands and/or weights for FMQ, I'm all ears!

So grateful.

I use Aurifil 50 wt for piecing and quilting. I do FMQ on my domestic machine. I use a neutral color thread for piecing, black only for black fabric. Colors to blend in for quilting. I have used a clear monofilament for an art quilt wall hanging.

My #1 for FMQ on a domestic is Isacord 50 wt. polyester. My #2 is Aurifil 50/3 cotton. I use a 90/14 needle with both of these, and my favorite needles are Schmetz.

I have read about placing the spool of thread according to the way it’s wrapped. I have it placed vertically, but down on the table and up through the gizmo that places more distance from the spool to the threading mechanisms because I read that that helps prevent twisting of the thread. That actually causes the thread to unwind off the top of the spool instead of the side. I will try moving the spool up on the spindle on the machine. Thank you!

Thank you! I have a second project that has a good sized painted appliqué and I want to use mono-poly and a blind hem stitch. It’s my first time using it and I’m a little fearful of it. I will practice first but are there any . 😬

Thank you! I have a second project that has a good sized painted appliqué and I want to use mono-poly and a blind hem stitch. It’s my first time using it and I’m a little fearful of it. I will practice first but are there any tension tips or tricks I should know?. 😬

I bought that machine about 20 years ago, I think it had just been released. At the time there was an online group for it where I learned much about FMQ and that machine. The one piece of advice I never forgot came from a Brother tech via a member on the group. He advised for FMQ use a Stretch needle, they are ball point, meant for knits but have a longer scarf where the thread lays.
I have done that ever since, it makes a world of difference, I highly recommend it. Rarely a skipped stitch or shredding and if it starts to do that I know my needle has gotten too dull so put in a new needle. Can't say enough praise for the Stretch Needle & FMQ.

Is your thread in the take-up lever? Is you lift down? down? If you answered no to either question. You will have these issues.
Remember too,, if your machine sews just fine when sewing a straight seam, your problem is NOT a tension issue...so don't mess with your tension.

A revelation! I can’t wait to try it! Thank you.

Interesting tip about straight stitching and tension. Thank you.

I too am trying with little success to free motion quilt. I found using rulers to guide is a satisfying way for me to quilt on my machine.
This is not real fancy and I tried quilting in sections.
Attachment 631274

I am starting to wonder if, in addition to my what I may be doing wrong, there is something wrong with my machine. It was repaired last year and had a problem with the timing I think. I have FMQed successfully in the past so, I can't be sure. What's different now is the size of the quilt and the thread. One change at a time, I built up my table area with boxes level to the machine, I changed the needle to a ball point 14, then to a 16. Still have shredding at the needle. I lowered the tension. I finally made it through the next part of the quilting but oh boy, what torture! Lots of restarting when the thread broke. Still some hopping and choking and even some loops on the bottom this time. I'm using Coats and Clark poly thread. Is that too low quality? I tried three different ways to upload a photo (2.5MB jpeg) and got an error message every time: failed to upload. ::sigh::

i had that problem with one of my machines and it turned out it was a bad hook - I traded for a newer
version of same machine because It balanced out the cost is the repair towards a new machine. No more thread issues. I FMQ with a top stitch needle and any thread but Madeira cotton which is fine for piecing. There are many different needles to try. Some of us get good success with different ones

Thank you, Were you able to successfully straight stitch or did it just become a problem with FMQ?
I would definitely consider trading but I bought the machine on Amazon, maybe, ten years ago. I love the machine though. It's a workhorse and has served me well- for the most part. : )
Michele

Still struggling. I've been able to do a lot of FMQ on this project and I've tried many of the suggestions posted in response to my SOS. After many hours of torture I've realized that sewing over the seams is often where everything breaks down. The needle seems to stick and yank the quilt up, stitches are skipped, the bobbin thread can go off synch, and the thread can break near the needle. I'm currently using a 14 ball point needle (waiting for top stitch needles from Schmetz), 50 weight cotton Gutermann and Aurifil, and I built up the table around the machine. But I can't remove the bulk of the seams. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions? This is torture!!! https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/frown.png

The old one did straight stitch fine. Are you using a hopping FMQ foot? They seem to go over seams easier.

If that means a foot with the spring, yes I am.

Well I wonder what the issue is. Maybe you will have better luck with the different needles. I think even the same machine might like a needle/thread combination that is different from its twin.