Applique - your wolf was gorgeous especially when you added the eyes

I use light weight fusible interfacing on the back of
my applique pieces, then trim off excess interfacing before
sewing it onto my quilt. I don't have to worry about the
edges fraying out on me. Before I started using this, I had the same problem with fraying edges. Betty Lee

Can someone tell me what stabilizer is,what it does and how to use it?I have never heard of it.Thanks

I use a sheet of copy paper to stabilize my applique piece. Just slide the paper under your fabric,(the applique will be on top of the fabric, so they'll be 3 layers). And stitch through all layers. When you're done the paper will just pull away. This helps move the work around on the machine with very little resistance from moving layers of fabric.

----Applique---- Only in my dreams could I have applique points so clean and precise! Beautiful work!

I'm not sure I understand your question about the stitching, but this is how I do it. I use the blanket stitch, sewing with the straight part of the stitch right next to the applique and the left swing of the needle on the applique. I do a lot of applique and I use Heat 'n Bond light. I use a sharp needle, and I put on a new one for each project. I've never had a problem with fraying, even when I do raw-edged applique where I stitch a straight stitch right on the edge. So far, everything has held together. My guess? It's your needle. Put on a fresh new one each time you do a new applique project. That stuff on the back of the applique can't help but gum things up and dull your needle.

If you are appliqueing through a single layer, yes I would use a stabilizer, but if you were going through the batting and batting, probably no. However, I, personally might not use a satin stitch, I might use just a straight stitch about a scant 1/4" from the applique edge or maybe a blanket stitch. I'd have to try it. You also need to consider how big your quilt if and how easy it will move while appliqueing.

I fuse the whole piece of cloth that I think I will be using and then cut out the item I will be fusing down. No frayed edges, it is fused all the way. I also save all my little scraps to use in other quilts where I want to fuse something down.

Okay, I know what to do next time, but I really thought I had followed all your guidelines (except starching) but now have a finished quilt with some of the applique edges, especially the smaller ones, or circular ones, fraying and pulling away from the stitching. Other than taking those pieces off, recutting and sewing them back by hand, is there anything I can do to correct the problem? Glue? Fray check? Don't want to ruin the quilt with something that may not work. Thanks all. You always come to the rescue!!!
bev.

I use E. Burns method in her Sunbonnet Sue Book.
Trace the pattern on the fusible.
Sew the fusible onto the fabric piece.
Cut a slit in the fusible, turn, and finger press. Iron in position on your quilt block. Stitch around the applique piece with the buttonhole stitch. Works great and no frayed edges because the edges are in a seam. :thumbup:

I have to agree with MadQuillter... stabilizer works for me. I use an old sheet cut to the size of the block and leave it on afterwards. Adds stability for quilting later too.
'

I use steam a seam all the time. Change the size of your needle and your stitches may be too tight. Most important thing of all is to sew with your plate on a single hole for straight stitching only! Don't give up . Use some practice pieces till it comes out ok. Roz

I use E. Burns method like pieces does no problems and use a blanket stitch around the edges.

I was going to jump in but all these lovely quilters touched on all my answers. Good luck.

I agree the needle should fall just on the outside of the fabric. If I use a zigzag, I go around once with a loser and just a tad smaller. Then I adjust to the size I want and tighten up the stictch some, and that has made it easier for me. I do use a tear away stablizer also. I read this somewhere several years ago when I was doing an ABC book and it really helped me.

What is stabilizer and what does it do?

When I sew the applique, my straight stitch is in the background fabric- very close to the applique piece. The little bite then swings to the left into the applique and then the needle swings back to the background fabic for a few stitches.

Also, is the fabric you are using for the applique tightly woven? Have you considered doing a practice block with a batik? I'm sure that one would not fray! : = )

Got a dumb question for you......
What is the brand of the "non-woven fusible" you use? There are SOOOO many types and choices that I sometimes wish Eleanor would package her own brand so I could get just what she's using! HA! The one I see Eleanor using doesn't appear to have a paper backing so I guess the fusible material is only on one side. HELP

:!: :shock: :oops:

I just appliqued a butterfly quilt and used wonder under. No frayed edges. also used a stitch that looked like a straight stitch with an x over it. I don't know what it's called, but it worked well. I used a size 16 needle since I quilted as I went.

I don't know much of anything about appliqué, and am currently working on my first fusible project. I'm using the double sided paper backed Pellon product. I haven't gotten to the part of stitching it down yet, but am reading all the hints with great interest and hoping it saves me from some mess-ups :) Thank you all for those!

On the fraying, is it possible when fusing, the edges aren't getting totally fused down? Or not fused well enough? I'm just wondering if that could contribute to the fraying. Or, perhaps even the fabric weave? (But then again, what do I know????)

Just a thought :)
Debbie in Austin

Try anew needle and do not do a satianst to begin it is a harder one to tackle... a Button hole st is the one I perfer the best but I also use all kins of fancy stitches also...

Sometimes I use a finner needle and sometimes a topst needle for blanket st for I like ti use two threads at once so it really shows and look hand stitched.

A cheaper, loosley woven fabric is going to have a tendancy to fray more than a good quality, tight woven fabric. Fabric choice is important when doing applique.

I did an entire quilt applique using flannels a couple of years ago. Not sure what needle I used, but I did use Steam a Seam Lite 2. I used the blanket stitch and didn't have any problems. I did use a new needle. It was a baby quilt. I recently saw the quilt after many, many uses and washes and it still looks GREAT! I was actually surprised. I worried and fretted over it the whole time I was making it, but apparently all worry was for not. The quilt is holding up very well. Oh, and I didn't have any problems with fraying along the edges.

Someone suggested using starch. I don't recommend this because the starch will keep the Steam a Seam from fusing properly to one or the other or both your applique piece or the background. This is my experience so just my opinion. Maybe others have had other experiences. Good luck!

I was going to attach a photo, but I can't find it, Oh Well.

Am going to say smaller sharp needle.. not universal, not ballpointed, but sharp. (presuming your cottons are WOVEN cotton fabrics. And a small size... like size 11 or better yet size 9. adding fusible to the back first wouild help too. Fray check painted along the line and allowe to dry would help hold that spot together, there is a newer product from the company that makes fraycheck I think... that is softer and still holds loose threads together. I can see having some problem in some spots with some fabric but not a lot of spots and lots of fabric areas... I suspect the size and non-sharpness of the needle.... good luck hehehe

Nuther thought is to straight stitch (with small sharp needle) about 1/16 in from the edge first... then zigzag over the straight stitch close enuf to cover it up. And as someone said on page 1/2, the applique zigzags should be mostly ON the fabric with just the right-swing missing the edge a tiny bit... 3/4 or 7/8 of the width of the zigzagging should be ON the fabric. good luck, again. Sheeps

This is the method I use, except I sew to another piece of fabric, and then use a fabric glue stick for placement, and when all pieces are in place, then I sew them all down, with what ever stitch that may suit my fancy at that moment. God bless.

What if it is a small piece,say less than an inch,will this work?

I use the same method as Sharon, I use blanket stitch on the machine after ironing fusible web to applique, cut around where I want, then stitch. If you are too close to the applique, you can shred the edge a little and leave an unfinished look.

Heatn Bond Light --the purple/lavender labeled one. The red one will gum up the needle.

[ :thumbup:[/quote]

Got a dumb question for you......
What is the brand of the "non-woven fusible" you use? There are SOOOO many types and choices that I sometimes wish Eleanor would package her own brand so I could get just what she's using! HA! The one I see Eleanor using doesn't appear to have a paper backing so I guess the fusible material is only on one side. HELP

:!: :shock: :oops:[/quote]
Fusible stabilizer is another name for fusible interfacing. I normally use Pellon brand as I am familiar with how it reacts to my sewing and pressing methods. Any of it will work. The fusible side is the one with the rough little glue dots. I use the sheerest weight one for this applique technique so you don't have bulky edge seams.

If your fabric is fraying, it is probably due to the fact that there is a bias area on your applique. This happens often when you are using curved pieces. EX: going from crosswise to lengthwise grain you have some bias areas. One solution to this: USE A VERY FINE LINE of fray check, or fabric glue on the very edge of the fabric, let it dry. Most dry clear, test a sample first. Most of the time the stitching will cover the fray check or fabric glue. Hope this helps!