I had done some fusible applique in the past. I used Steam-a-seam Lite 2, I believe. When I went to do the stitching on the side, it completely mangled the fabric. I was doing the zigzag stitch, trying to get it halfway on the fabric and halfway on the background. I also tried straight stitching on the inside, but whatever I did, the edge fabric was fraying like crazy and it just looked so unfinished and unpolished. I dislike hand applique since it takes so long but the edges look so beautiful and clean. I was using cotton fabric onto muslin and cotton. Any suggestions for how to make that happier?? Thanks!

Oh, and the way I was doing it was to use the double sided fusible, attach it to the applique piece, cut, place onto the background, iron.

NOT like how they do here: http://www.mccallsquilting.com/artic...achine_Fusible where they sew the fusible to the applique first. Is there a better tute for that method? I can't see the pictures :( And can I still use the steam-a-seam 2 Lite for this method?

I used heat and bond to the back of the fabric fist and then attach it to the background , no problems

are you using a fresh sharp needle? What size?

Do you mean no problems when you're stitching it down later? Just want to make sure :)

Noooo idea (it was a few months ago that I had the applique problems. Not I'm back trying to applique a quilt and figure out what I did wrong, after I forgot most of it :D). Most likely not a fresh needle, and no idea what size

No problems stitching it down or fraying fabrics :thumbup:

I was taught to sew with the right side of the stitch just off the edge of the fabric I don't know if that helps but I use heat and bond light and dont have this problem

I use steam-a-seam, but I set the blanket stitch so it edges the outline. For me the center placement of fancy stitches just does not work.

This may be another place where good old spray starch would help! :-D :idea:

I uses "Steam n' Seam 2 on many quilts with no problem. All I can think is maybe your needle is dull or gummed up. Also, when going around curves, use needle down & lift presser foot to make small turns frequently - even if you have only gone 1 or 2 stitches.

Thank you all. Another question: What size needle should I use?

Making sure I have this right - the majority of your stitching is on the applique with only a little on the background, correct?

I am curious, what size needle should one use for fusible applique?

Yes, the needle enters the background fabric JUST OFF the applique and moves into the applique. I prefer blanket - or buttonhole stitch to do mine. The sideways part of the stitch covers the raw edge and I have never had any trouble.

Another great stitch is the satin stitch (a very tight zig-zag) - it does use a bit of thread but all of the seam is covered.

I would recommend that you add a stabilizer under the piece though or you may have puckers or drawn in look.

i thin sharp NEW needle is necessary, also a stablizer will really help keep your project from fraying or puckering while you stitch. you can use a removeable stablizer or one that can stay right in but it really makes a huge difference, especially for applique projects like Mickena Ryan patterns. starch will not help because fusable has trouble sticking to the fabric if it has been starched, it is important to pre-wash and make sure the sizing and any starch is removed from the fabric before attaching the fusable.

Don't you need a stabalizer for that also?

The straight stitches should be in the background fabric, and the "zigs" to the side should be in the applique.

The lighter adhesives are nice as they dont make the fabrics feel as stiff, but you also may have more fraying happening.

I wouldn't starch fabrics when using applique, the starch can prevent the adhesives from adhering well.

I love doing applique. I always use wonder under, but any two sided fusible will work. It sounds like your problem is the need for a stabilizer under your project. I just use copy paper. The satin stitch makes it really easy to remove the excess paper afterwards. A used needle will still stitch your applique but you will get skipped stitches. The bunching is because you aren't using a stabilizer.

When I've machine appliqued, use the lightest possible fusible (as it'll stiffen your quilt in those areas). I probably do my prep for my material differently than most. I actually cut out all my applique pieces then place them on the fusible and put my teflon sheet on top and iron all at once, then cut out the pieces individually and haven't had a problem with fraying. I don't feel its necessary to use a stabilizer.

I also use a satin stitch. Practice with this, you don't want it too tight of stitch or it'll pucker the fabric and the width is actually a preference. I don't do my stitches very wide I go for a more thin just edging.

I make a sandwich and start adjusting my stitches every 1- 1.5" for the width and then do the same for the length of stitch to come up with the combo that I like.

Good Luck!!

yes all but the edge of the stitch is on the piece just a small bite into the background

I use a stabilizer under the background when I machine applique. Sometimes all I have is a piece of paper, but that works almost as good as the tear away stuff. Your needle might not be sharp enough. I use Superior's Titanium Coated needles in a Topstitch 80/12 or 90/14 size.

I would use as fine of a needle as I could get away with. When I use invisible thread I use a 60/8 and it really helps with the edge frays.

You can always use a one sided sew in fusible where you sew the non-fusible side to the right size of the fabric, make a small slit in the fusible and turn it right side out. After you smooth the seams out, you can then fuse the applique down and use a zig zag stitch. I prefer using a satin stitch because I really dislike the raw edge unless it is in a wall quilt that won't be washed very often.

I use the double sided Wonder Under. No problems. I don't stitch very far into the background. Maybe that's the difference.

fine sharps needle --button hole stitch straight stitches on bacground with the zag! stitch on applique---just done 40 6x6+hearts appliqued on and used 2 needles

I'm just teaching myself also and just finished doing the applique on one quilt. Here's what I did and had no problems....(well, except for my ugly stitches)

I always prewash my fabrics (including the applique fabrics)

I spray starch the wrong side of the fabrics blend in with my hands then press, flip over (no need to spray again just press) and have no problems with flaking.

I use double sided Wonder Under, press on the applique fabric, cut, peel off the paper backing and iron on the applique. (The spray starch didn't hurt this process for me at all)

I use the satin stitch on the applique part.

Now if I could just do a better job with the look of my stitches.lol I'm working on it!

I did try the stablizer (copy paper) on a few pieces and really didn't notice a difference. Maybe just try the spray starch and see if it will allow your applique to stick and maybe help stiffen things up enough to sew the applique on. (if you do use the paper as a stablizer with the satin stitch it brakes right off).


Best wishes for success!

I use steam a seam fuse and really like it. Did you fuse the appique to the background fabric, were you using quality fabric? I also don't use a huge needle, a 70 or 80 is about as large as I go, unless I am using a 40 wt. thread, but that is mostly used with a blanket stitch. When I do satin stitch, I only allow the needle on the zag of the stitch to fall off the applique, the rest of the stitch is on the applique fabric. Also consider the size of the applique, if it is large, then use a wider zigzag, I usually use between 2.5 - 3 on my Bernina. I love doing satin stitch applique. Hope this helps your problems.

Oh yes, I forgot, I always use some kind of stabilizer of the back of the backgound fabric. That keeps the satin stitch from tunneling or puckering as you are stitching. My favorite is a tear away as it comes off easy after you are done. Don't know why I forgot to mention that with the first post.

Thank you all for letting me know your methods and you needle size!

I was planning on fusing on the applique to the borders (just in the borders, center is pieced), quilting the center and then quilting the applique border. So I would have the satin stitch pattern showing up on the back. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Everyone's talking about stabilizer, and I *think* I wouldn't need stabilizer then, but not sure...

thanks!

When you sew around each of the appliques, you are going to be spinning the quilt around and around. This may not be very easy, depending on the size of your quilt, and the size of your machines throat.

You may find it easier to stitch around the appliques before you attach the borders.
Just something to think about :D:D:D

:shock: :shock: :shock: You're a genius!! And you just saved me a lot of annoyance! Thank you!

Also - if you prewash do NOT use fabric softener or softener sheets because most fusibles won't bond well with your fabric due to the sofener's residue.

Not a genius, but when I read this, it helped me from getting into a frustrating situation too :wink:
I was happy to pass it along :D:D:D

I also trace the pieces onto Wonder Under (it is cheaper than Steam A Seam) then fuse and cut out. I use batiks because the tighter weaves helps prevent fraying. The bulk of the satin stitch is on the applique and I use 30 wt. thread for a bit smoother stitch. The narrower your stitch the more wobbles will show. The tear away stabilizer that I use is the wall liner used before wallpapering uneven surfaces. You can also satin stitch the "inside" of the applique on the stabilizer, tear away the stabilizer and applique the edges to the background with stabilizer behind it. On large pieces I will protect them with freezer paper ironed on until ready to stitch to the background. The eyes below were stitched separately as was the nose before stitching to the face. (Front and back shot of the eyes, stabilizer removed.)

Make sure you ironed it onto your base fabric, if you did, there would be no reason for it to be loose and fray. I start machine applique by dropping the needle into the fabric at the outer edge, lower the foot and sew away with the blind stitch or buttonhole stitch. Check on scrap fabric to be sure the next movement of the needle goes into the applique and not into space.
Carol J.

That's how I do it. I also use spray starch. That helps keep the fraying down.

Be sure are you fusing the 'rough' design to the steam a seam, and then cutting it out EXACTLY once the fusible is on the applique piece. It helps get the fusible exactly to the cutting line, rather than cutting the shape of your applique out first and then fusing the steam a seam to it. Try using a tear away stabilizer behind the base fabric. It helps keep everything from scrunching up, and will keep you stitching nicer.

You have received great help here from others, already. I use Steam a Seam 2 and a mixture it buttonhole stitch and zizzag depending on the piece and how I want it to look. When using the zigzag - I use a medium tear away stabilizer sold for Machine Embroidery. One other thing that I do - I use the Havel 7 in Serrated Applique scissors - the cut it clean and precise. The edge has no threads hanging out.

Love what you are doing. Please post the finished product. :-)