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Though not fusible the sewer cloth would be an ideal light weight interfacing........and less expensive..like talked about in a previous thread....just a thought....
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I can't tell from reading this discussion what's really needed, but I'll throw this out there any way. I buy my interfacing from https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/. It's more expensive, but it's nice woven interfacing in many different weights, both fusible and sew-in. Since I don't use a lot, the extra cost doesn't amount to much.
The website is a little confusing, trying to figure out where "shirt-crisp" fits in to "lightly crisp" and "super-crisp" and the ones that don't say "crisp" at all, but the products themselves seem good. I would probably order their sampler next time before ordering more, just to lesson the confusion. |
Now I am confused as well...I just checked my supply cabinet and came across a roll of tear away fusible stabilizer and it mentions great for paper piecing quilt blocks? I have used the newsprint version where you sew through the paper and tear away the paper later and the freezer paper method where you flip and sew, but all the paper pieced quilts I have made required a pattern to follow and this is a blank roll and if you tried to print something on the surface and there was any heat involved...good bye printer. So are you supposed to trace the pattern, being sure you have it reversed, and treat it like you would newsprint? If this is the technique employed, why would you tear the stabilizer away...it is not that bulky...so why bother? For the life of me, unless I am having a brain freeze, I cannot see where you could use this for paper piecing...unless you are doing something scrappy and the sewing is random and you do not need to follow a particular design. I am not confusing this with applique....or using this products for stabilizing a fabric as you embroider. I hope I am not so confused that I appear to be hijacking this post ...I think we are both talking about the same thing.
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Go to post #5 in this thread for a link to the picture of the project I'm playing around with. You don't tear away the interfacing. You do trace the pattern onto the smooth side of the interfacing. For this pattern, reversing isn't necessary. I'm sure it's just as easy (or easier) to trace it on either freezer paper or copy paper and run it through the printer, but I thought I'd give this method a try.
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Guess I just need to read a little better, but I do agree with you about possibly using freezer paper and opting out of this method. I find if you print the design onto copy paper then take a 2nd piece of copy paper and to that sheet iron a larger piece of freezer paper to its surface. Carefully trim it to the correct size and check to be sure the feed edge of the sandwiched papers are well fused and then run it through your printer. You peal away the two sheets...and yes the freezer paper is a slight bit less "sticky" and you cannot use it as many times as you might if you traced it...but it is a LOT easier than tracing over and over. I also understand why you might give this a try...as they say: "nothing ventured nothing gained!"
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If you get the 8 1/2 x 11 freezer paper, you can skip the step of attaching it to copy paper. I order it from www.cjenkinscompany.com Some Staples carry it, but in smaller packs.
Several people on this board just cut regular freezer paper to the right size and run it through their printer, but I haven't had much success with that. |
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