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Thanks Pinkcastle :) I would like a SID foot too! I believe the TL2010 is the 98 with a few improvements... so I am told lol
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Originally Posted by Mitch's mom
Measure your foot. A high shank industrial foot is 1 1/4 inches tall. I found a box of industrial feet at an antique store to fit my Singer 31-15. I then found an attachment box full of domestic machine high shank feet, I can use either or when I'm using the 31-15.
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Originally Posted by Just-Lee
Thanks Pinkcastle :) I would like a SID foot too! I believe the TL2010 is the 98 with a few improvements... so I am told lol
http://www.raichert.com/azsewingstore/p-JTLF4.htm |
Juki 2010 free motion foot
I am surprised Juki has not put out a good free motion open toe foot! I love the feet that came with my 2010Q but I do not love that they are closed toe.
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Originally Posted by Maggiemay
(Post 4219388)
I hve a high shank indusrtial Janome 1600P & all of the feet screw on with a little screw driver- no snap ons or levers to attach the feet. I think that may be the difference between high shank & indusrtial. I need to buy an extra foot to make an open-toed foot too as there is not one made for my machine.
Of course, it was still a straight stitch machine, but at least I could use the stitch in the ditch foot etc. |
I am thinking of buying the 2010 but having a hard time justifying it when I have the janome 6500. Thoughts. What do I gain?
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I have the Juki 210Q. The website www.thecolorfulworldofsewing has the foot. It is an open toe free motion quilting foot for high speed straight stitch machines like the Juki 2010Q. It is part number HS-P60437 and is $15.99.
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i have had good luck finding parts with them, call them:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...+feet&_sacat=0 |
6 Attachment(s)
My Juki 2010 came with two different hopping feet - one with a slightly heavier closed toe ring. I chose to modify the one with the smaller ring, since it would be easier to cut through. Here's what I did to mine, and I absolutely love it now.
Here you can see both feet. The one that I modified is on the right. You can see that I have stuffed a few pieces of corrugated cardboard in there to hold the spring tension, which keeps the foot floating slightly above the fabric. I had to experiment to find the right amount for me (in my case, it's three layers of cardboard and one piece of folded paper). You can also see where I bent the bar that normally rides on the needle bar and makes the foot hop. I bent it up and out of the way so that the foot does not hop. [ATTACH=CONFIG]545860[/ATTACH] From this angle you can see the open toe on the modified foot. The tools I used are shown. I used the pliers to bend the bar and keep the foot from hopping. I used the metal file to file open the toe. The toe is made of pretty sturdy metal, so it took some time to cut through. No strength; just patience. It probably took a good thirty minutes to file it open. [ATTACH=CONFIG]545862[/ATTACH] I know that it's scary to modify the foot, but hey, the machine came with two of them, and they're (in my opinion) fairly useless for FMQ before modification, and from my experience, the modified foot works fantastically well. Of course, if you do the modifications, I'm not responsible for your results, but I'm super happy with mine now. |
I have an older Bernina and I found that generic feet just don't work as well as the original. I bought my last walking foot on eBay and it was in absolutely new condition even tho it was over a decade since it was made.
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