help with log cabin squares ?
 

I am frustrated - trying to make 5 1/2 inch log cabin squares. The pattern calls for the strips to be cut
1 1/2 inches wide.

I have double checked my cutting measurement, and my seam allowances (1/4 inch).

I am sewing straight seams, dry pressing them open, and yet they are still not looking square. Some pieces look wider than others and the squares came out wat too small.

I am on my second attempt with just starting all over and ready to give up.

Any suggestions ?

I can't make a log cabin block come out straight and square unless I paper piece them. . .

I'm making 120 log cabin squares at the moment and posted this same question earlier. I ended up strip piecing the squares, then trimming them after every "log" added. It takes longer, but I don't have the frustration of uneven logs and squares. I am amazed at how wonky the squares become even when being super careful. The method I'm doing now is great for me and even though some of the logs aren't exactly 1 inch (I'm doing 1.5 inch strips too), it is unnoticable to anyone but me.

Trim as you go to keep your squares square.

thanks - now I feel better knowing this is not just me. :o I don't know how to paper piece so.....

I will give it another shot with squaring as I go - can you tell me how you do that ? I have been using a small grid cutting board and lining up the edges with the grid, then trimming one edge straight, turning and doing the same to all sides. is this right ?

Do you block at each step it makes a difference

what does "block" mean - do you mean press and stretch it out ?

I have a clear omnigrid quilting ruler and I square up the squares with that. Just be aware of how big your square should be at the time and trim to those dimensions.

One of my first quilt was E. Burns Quilt in a Day. Granted the strips were 21/2 inches, but shows the cut as you go method. It was relatively easy. I'm going to the 11/2 strips one day!

Eleanor Burns' Log Cabin in a Day book is a great resource~~ :)

I too have given up piecing them and now paper piece them. Takes longer but they are all straight and even.

For LC's of that size, I make it simple for myself by PPing. BTW, I hope that is supposed to be 5 1/2" raw size, because otherwise you are asking for grief. For regular piecing, I do agree that pressing (and checking the measures) after each step is important.

The best way I can keep them( log cabins blocks) square while working on the blocks , is to starch the heck out of the fabrics prior to cutting. It really really helps to keep everything straight. Also I use a terry cloth towel on my ironing board over the regular surface, this helps the blocks from stretching while pressing. The terry cloth gives resistance against the stretch. it will hold the fabric right where you put it.

I've had the same problem as you and my solution was to do like Ranchwife does. You aren't alone with this problem, having them 1/4"-1/2" wider then trimming after sewing, was mentioned in a well known log cabin book by a known author. although I don't remember who or what the book was.

Heres a YouTube video that shows paper piecing a log cabin block. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WpN6Tq-...%3DWpN6Tq-nTWg. Carol Doak has great books and some videos that will help. I taught myself to paper piece by watching lots of video tutes.

Also, you said that your 1/4" seam is ok. Measure your logs in the block. They should measure exactly 1". If they are too small, your seam is too big. If they are more than an inch, your seams are too small. If you are using a 1/4" foot, you often have to also adjust your needle position to get a true 1/4" seam.

ok so if I cut the strips say 2 inches wide rather than 1 and 1/2 wide - that sounds like a good plan.

Also the terry cloth and starch - will try !

The last log cabin I made, I cut the outside strips 1/4" wider. I could at least trim the blocks to all the same size. Be sure when you press the seams there is no overlap at all on the right side. I have to press each seam before adding another strip to keep the logs the same width. I press the seams open on a log cabin block.

I got Judy Martin's log cabin book and follow her directions. No problem. She has so many tips on how to make your log cabins (and all other sewing) come out perfectly, it's well worth the price. There's no trimming down necessary. Pre-cutting to size really helps.

http://www.amazon.com/Judy-Martins-C...rtin+log+cabin

Eleanor Burns log cabin patterns are easy and turn out perfect. My first log cabin was her log cabin stars quilt where the sashing makes a star pattern. It turned out great.
I reccomend all her patterns.

Honestly, I don't think that they have to be perfect, no one will really notice. I have made a few log cabin quilts and just square them up at the end. I believe paper piecing or squaring up after each log is a waste of time. Just make them all and square them up at the end. If you really want to, you can make the last log a little larger and then square them up.

Thank you all SO much for the excellent suggestions and encouragement !

I decided to give it another try, incorporating the ideas I could - and voila ! success !!!

Two things made a huge difference - I was sewing 1/4 inch seams but I reduced them down to a very scant 1/4 inch.

Also starch - a lifesaver ! I "starched the heck" out of the fabrics and it helped tremendously.

I am going to try to post a pic of my before and after - thank you all again, i will definately be looking for your advice again !

Way ta go! :):thumbup:

there is a new log cabin ruler that I purchased - it has made my log cabin blocks darn-near perfect!

I have made at least four log cabin quilts and used Eleanor Burns Log Cabin Quilt in a Day book and all turned out great. BTW (I am a real hard case nit picker) for my corners and points to match in my quilts, and am often teased in my quilt group, because I rip out and keep working to get each point perfect. At one of our last meetings was working next to a dear friend who is a great seamstress and has sewn for the public for at least 30 + years. I was ripping out a set of blocks in my chevron quilt I am working on and her comment- "they are only off a smidgen and not enough to really notice, I personally would not bother to redo that" mine," I know but I can't stand to look at that being that much off, " other overheard and said "well you know Gerbie, she keeps on until it is perfect for her". I would drive my mother nuts when growing up because I would redo over and over until it satisfied me. Anyway, I have never had a problem with E. Burns method. I haven't used others, but highly suggest purchasing her book- I bought mine many years ago at Hobby Lobby. I might also add- some fabrics stretch much more than others, even if they are all cotton. I know for sure that gingham checks is one of the worst to stretch, - I am sure it is because of how tightly woven the fab. is in some fabs. So if some of the fab. in your strips seems to stretch more than others, that might be a problem there. Good luck and show us your work.

The first quilt I made was a log cabin quilt. I took a class at a quilt shop. We used Elanor Burns' Quilt in a Day. Didn't have the challenges I hear others talking about. Highly recommend the book. Can usually find it at JoAnn's with a coupon to save some money.

I'm currently making log cabin blocks using QAYG and find that starching and pressing are a good place to start. When I attach each strip on, I measure the distance across the top and bottom of the square after I've laid the next strip to be sewn on. That uses the straight edge on the left as the reference point rather than the pieces on the right that you are sewing over. It only takes a thread or two off to make the block look wonky and this method works for me to keep it acceptably square. Fabric is such a flexible medium to work with that there is almost always something to ease or trim. Part of the craft of quilting!

I have found that if I spend a few minutes starching my fabric before I cut it, then the strips have more body and don't seem to wabble. I make my own spray starch, just the old fashioned stuff you dilute with water, so my fabric is a bit stiffer than if I used a commerical spray starch. If I've cut them correctly, on the straight of grain, and sew them with skimpy 1/4 inch seam, press with each round, they work well for me.. For me the starch made the difference, try it, you'll like the way your blocks look!

I would probably carefully starch my strips, even after I've cut them.. Just be careful not to stretch them.

Of the quilts I've made the log cabin was the hardest even though most say it is easy.

No help here but happy for the answers. My only two log cabins were so bad I set them aside and said "never again"!

When my guild made a group log cabin quilt, we made the last round wider, then trimmed the block to a standard size. The quilt tuned out great and no one noticed the differing sizes.

If you can, please post link to buy this ! Thank you - I'm a gadget hound !

Same here. It's so much easier that way!

Thank you ! I just found the new Niagra non-aerosol starch at my grocery and have been using it
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Niagara-No...22-oz/20630093

and was wondering if I could refill it with good old liquid starch mixed with water - can you give me the proportions you use ?

Are you using starch? Starch seems to reduce the amount of distortion when pressing pieces of fabric. And I, too, often resort to cutting pieces larger than I need, sewing two pieces together and then measuring and trimming the excess. I too, don't know why it's so hard to be precise, but the two suggestions I've given you have helpd me quite a bit.

Have any of you see a real log cabin! One of the charms is the fact that the logs go from wider to more narrow and the next row of logs goes from narrower to wider. I think that sometimes we fuss and worry and take a lot of delight out of our quilts because we don't want anyone to be able to think we aren't perfect. Nothing is perfect. Log cabin quilts made with some slight differences only add to the joy of the quilt. I have used the log cabin concept to frame pictutes (fairy prints, for instance) and made them wonky just to give magic and movement to the quilt. The GD that got that quilt spent 20 minutes laying on it, looking at each fairy, ideas silently going through her head, before she ran to me and thanked me several times with several kisses. She was about 6 then, she is 10 now and an incredible artist! The quilt really does look almost alive!

Your lines on the cutting board may be your problem. They are not as accurate as a ruler. Use your ruler to measure the distance from the 0 to say the 12" line ... does it match?

You may want to use paper piecing to get things just right

I've made log cabin blocks using 1 1/2" strips, and no matter how careful I was each block was slightly different. Since they were just for placemats, I squared up each block to the same size. Having said that, I just finished making a queen size log cabin quilt using 2" strips. After each round, I squared up each block to the same size, then did the same after each round, even if it was only just a tiny trim - the quilt turned out beautifully and I'm very happy with it - just sent it to my niece to LAQ it for our family reunion in July as she has a long-arm. The one time I got absolutely perfect blocks was when I paper pieced the log cabin blocks. Hope this helps, but 1 1/2" strips can be a little challenging - but take it one step at a time and you'll do fine.

I've had success with three methods: trim/square up each round of logs and paper piecing and foundation. The first takes extra time to cut, the second takes extra time to remove the paper and the third is very heavy. I've never needed to use starch but your picture shows tremendous improvement, worth a try. I'd like to check out the Judy Martin book. Another method I've used is something like each log has it's own size, exaggerated. I make it wonky and trim up the block at the end to the finished size-this gives a lot of movement and fun. It's certainly not traditional, but then neither am I.