I do mine just like that too, also skipping the glue! Sometimes I sew to the front and hand stitch. I don't mind hand stitching. It's just a mood thing.

I sew mine to front first, because I can better guarantee that that looks better. I have tried many methods for getting it to flip to back, but honestly, it is never perfect and never show quality. if you want it more perfect, then using glue is the best option. you can pull the binding just past the initial stitch line, put just a small line of elmers school glue (only do a few inches at a time), then press that section of binding with a hot dry iron. continue with that all the way around the quilt. it is indeed time consuming, but you don't have to worry about "catching" the binding while you are sitting at the machine.
If I am too lazy to do the glue method, then I will use wonder clips (pins work, too, or any kind of binding clips). I clip or pin no more than the length of one side, keeping the pins close together. I stitch with the top of the quilt up, just in the ditch of the binding. I do it this way, again, so the front at least looks nice. Then I just hope and pray that it all catches on the back. The more I do it, the better it gets, but I still usually end up with a few spots where the stitching drifted and doesnt catch the binding. When that happens, I unstitch about 1/2 inch on either side of the blooper, pull it down tighter, re pin/clip and stitch it again.
Like i said, it never looks perfect on the back, but the front looks just fine!

I second the flange binding method, once I tried it I have never gone back It takes longer to make the binding, but once it's made it goes on lightning fast, but it is a little bit wider than traditional binding and will cut off any points. Now I always add at least a small border to all of my quilts so I don't have to worry about it.

The last time I had to use a traditional binding I did a double fold straight-cut binding, attached by machine to the back, and I used one of my decorative stitches in a complimentary thread to attach the binding to the front. I will use it again, but I need to experiment with it more. The stitch I used had flowers and loops on it, and the binding ruffled a little after being washed for the first time, since the stitching along the edge wasn't consistent.

I do all machine bindings. I sew my folded binding to the back of the quilt, and turn it to the front. Then I topstitch very close to the edge. I miter the corners as I come to them.

It takes practice and experimentation to find the right width of strip to cut and the right seam allowance, and how to make a pretty turn so the binding looks good on the front. Don't be discouraged if you need to rip and redo sections when you first start.

Here is a link to Jordan Fabrics tutorial on binding. It was very helpful to me. Two things that I do that vary a bit from her is: 1.-Where she folds the binding down after the 45 degree fold, I lay a long pin under that top edge fold and to make sure it is aligned straight with the top of the quilt and pin in place. (read that tip someplace and makes all the difference for me) and 2 - when she finger presses the binding along the seam line where she has sewn it to the quilt, I take it to the ironing board and press the binding away from the quilt with an iron, much like what you do when pressing to the "dark side". I think I saw that tip in one of her videos where she uses an iron to press the binding after sewing it on. If using that method, no need to iron in half before sewing, just align edges as you fold and sew, the pressing after will take care of the fold. I also cut my bindings 2 1/4 inch and usually serge the edges of the quilt before adding binding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQgjp4Upt8w&t=844s

https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...s-t310370.html
I bind my quilts using the quilt top, or sometimes the bottom (minky) folded forward. I made an illustrated tutorial!

This is the technique I use also for machine binding. Rather than glue, I use Wonder Clips as I work around the quilt. I use a Stitch in the Ditch foot on my Bernina 10D which keeps me accurate. When I get to the corners, I use a long pin to secure the fold until I drop my needle to secure the binding.

I agree with Tartan in that matching your thread to each side is essential when machine binding. You will never be able to have straight perfect lines on each side of he quilt, so it's better if the stitches on the back blend in with the material you have used.

I prefer to use bias binding - I baste the raw edges together - instead of ironing the strips in half. That crease line is "off" as the fabric is wrapped around the edge of the quilt sandwich. Gluing might work - I found that the edges of the binding tended to creep before I secured them together.

When stopping stitching before mitering the corners - 1/4 inch is only for when one has a 1/4 inch seam allowance. If wider or narrower, use that seam allowance for the stopping point.

To the original poster - I think any of the ways you have done it is okay. Just what you prefer to do.

It does seem that there is more than one "right" way to bind a quilt.

Practicing with scraps that are similar to the real thing is helpful.

Thank you everyone for the tips. For my quilts, I think I still prefer, machine stitch to the top then hand sew to the back. But, I have a lot of fat quarter size machine quilting practice sandwiches that I may bind to use as dog mats. Perfect to try new binding methods!